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Six-pack of California Chardonnays

by Darryl Beeson

Darryl

These six Chardonnays, listed alphabetically, are among the very few that have captured, over time, a reputation for being some of California's finest, consistently.

Acacia Chardonnay, Carneros 2006 ($22) is rich, almost creamy, with a spectrum of tree fruit flavors, including peach, pear, lemon and apple, with a touch of exotic spice in the long finish. Acacia has been devoted to producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Carneros region since it began in 1979. With over 150 acres in the heart of the Carneros, Acacia Vineyard has played a crucial role in establishing Carneros as a premier viticultural area, making it renowned for great Chardonnay. Also consider the newer "A by Acacia" Chardonnay, 2006 ($11), of which senior winemaker Mathew Glynn says "we were lured by the exotic tropical fruit flavors found in Monterey, Paso Robles and Santa Maria Valley, and (the) touch of ginger spice from Carneros."

Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay, Napa 2006 ($42) does not undergo a common Californian wine-making technique known as malolactic fermentation. This means more crisp acidity being good for successful food pairings as opposed to buttery flavors in the wine. There are aromas of lemon peel along with complex minerality and interesting floral components.

Rodney Strong Estate Vineyards Chardonnay, 2006 ($20) is described by winemaker Rick Sayre as being “Creamy and crisp, with abundant fruit character, mineral and toasty oak flavors" This wine is textbook California Chardonnay. Founder Rod Strong, planted Chardonnay in their original Chalk Hill Vineyard in 1965, and later spearheaded the establishment of the Chalk Hill Viticultural Area in 1983. He recognized the region as distinct from the rest of Russian River Valley for its unique chalky white soils, which impart a subtle mineral character to wines grown there.

Trefethen Estate Chardonnay, Oak Knoll (Napa) 2006 ($30) offers "aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, mango and Fuji apple spiced with hints of tarragon, are lovely in the nose. The palate is lush with citrus and light smoky oak, underscored by bright, crisp mineral qualities," boasts winemaker David Whitehouse, Jr. Whitehouse joined John and Janet Trefethen in 1975. His 1976 Chardonnay was ranked "Best in the World" at the World Wine Olympics held in Paris. French Champagne producer Chandon located a winery about a five iron away from Trefethen because they were impressed with the fruit.

Valley of the Moon Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2007 ($16) is bright with lemon, apricot balanced with creamy butter and subtle spice. The oak is nicely framed around this creamy white wine. This Chardonnay is a consistent high quality offering priced for value.

Wente Riva Ranch Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco (Monterey) 2007 ($16) aromas of apple, brown spice like vanilla, creamy butter, and crisp pear. Butterscotch and tropical fruit drift within the long finish. Wente Vineyards is California's oldest family owned and continuously operated winery. Founded in 1883 by C. H. Wente, the winery is now managed by the fourth and fifth generations of the Wente family. The winery farms nearly 3,000 acres of estate vineyards in the Livermore Valley and the Arroyo Seco regions.
 

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