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Paul
Dolan Winery tastily organic
by Darryl Beeson

Paul
Dolan was present, front and center, for the organic wine revolt.
With 27 years at the fun yet fancy Fetzer Vineyards (a dozen years
as the president), he took them to the front of organic and
sustainable farming.
“We want to make a difference in this
community,” says Dolan, “and we are. When Mendocino farmers get
together, we talk about organics and biodynamics because we strongly
believe these practices are good for the land and for wine quality.”
Now at Parducci and Mendocino Wine, he
is still has strong opinions. “We are clear about what we want,”
says Dolan, “(that being) an environmentally and socially conscious
winery making great wines from Mendocino. We are farming from the
standpoint of respect for the land and the natural environment.” He
and his team capture precise expression of Mendocino terroir.
Dolan’s greatest passion, however, is
winegrowing at his family-owned Dark Horse Ranch. An earnest student
of Rudolf Steiner (the father of the biodynamic movement), Paul
embraces Steiner’s premise that each piece of land has its own
unique expression.
The Paul Dolan Sauvignon Blanc,
Mendocino County 2007 ($17.99) is crisp, complex and well suited to
pair with finer foods. “Black bears roam the hillsides by the
headwaters of the Russian River, where two adjacent vineyards, each
with its own hydroelectric power plant,..the wine has a distinctive
kiwi fruit character, with bright citrus zest and lemon grass
notes,” boasts Dolan.
The Paul Dolan Zinfandel,
Mendocino/Amador County 2006 ($24.99). The Mendocino Zinfandel in
this bottle includes fruit from the Dolan family's vineyard south of
Talmage. Paul Dolan's long time friend, Frank Alviso, provided an
alternative component of exoctic and fleshy fruit from the famous
Amador County. “Mendocino County gives this wine its jammy berry
quality. Amador County lends a distinctive peppery spice,” observes
Dolan. “Together these opposites attract into a perfect marriage."
The Paul Dolan Cabernet Sauvignon,
Mendocino County 2005 ($24.99) offers complex fruit with restrained
tannins. It screams for a food pairing with grilled meat, simply
prepared. "This full-flavored wine shows the intensity of its red
soil roots" notes Dolan. "It is ripe and plummy, with intriguing
notes of anise and brown spice, and the structure to age five years
or more from the vintage."
Learn more at www.mendocinowineco.com.
The winegrowing practices create complex and special wines, while
sustaining the environment.
For more great wine suggestions, click
here
Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions? Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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