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Right on the rocks

by Darryl Beeson

Darryl

One of the biggest trends in spirits, over the past decade or more, is the desire for smoothness. This means no flavor sometimes. Vodka distilled so many times that it has no taste.

Lately there has been a similar movement in gin. An acquired taste that some say tastes more like an evergreen tree than your desired mixer ingredient, one new company has toned the herbs and greenness done somewhat.

'Right Gin' was created by two entrepreneurs, W. L. Lyons Brown and Cory H. Isaacson (Blackmint Distillery and Altamar Brands, LLC). They admitted that they hated the taste of gin and found it their mission to tinker with the profile of this classic. Perhaps it could appeal to younger adults. They traveled all over the world to find the perfect ingredients for their 'perfected' gin.

The classic ingredients of gin are still in Right Gin, but without the so-called bitter, oily after taste that the classic gins on the market may have.

The most common style of gin, typically used for mixed drinks, is called 'London dry gin.' It begins by taking a neutral grain spirit (usually produced in a what is called a column still) and redistilling after the botanicals are added. In addition to juniper, classical gin is usually made with subtle amount of citrus botanicals like lemon and bitter orange peel. Other botanicals that may be used include anise, angelica root and seed, orris root, licorice root, cinnamon, coriander, and cassia bark. Colonel Sanders would be jealous.

Right Gin ($40 per 750ml bottle) is not yet in full, national distribution. It was first launched in New York, Boston and Las Vegas in 2007, then more recently in other major markets.

This new firm also imports Kübler Absinthe, a relevant beverage that is newly legal again in the United States. Being that this forgotten spirit was banned for over a century, curious consumers have been interested in tasting it. The taste of anise is infused in this potent spirit. Kübler Absinthe is made in Switzerland.

The Kübler family produce absinthe in Val-de-Travers, beginning in 1875. This is the original birthplace of the great absinthes made famous in the highest art and literary circles during the Belle Époque in the 1880s. It takes its name from Yves Kübler who now carries the tradition of distilling genuine absinthe under his family’s name into its fourth generation.

Invented in the Val-de-Travers in Switzerland in 1740 by a Swiss doctor for his patients, it was quickly adopted by the trendy bohemians in France as a replacement for wine that was in extremely short supply. Baudelaire, Manet, Van Gogh, Degas, Toulouse-Lautrec, Picasso, Oscar Wilde and later Hemingway were all absinthe enthusiasts. They found absinthe as a drink that heightened the senses and improved creativity. Although there was no scientific basis in absinthe’s rumored effects, a legend was born.

Absinthe took root in New Orleans and achieved similar success in other parts of America. Known by the nickname, “The Green Fairy,” absinthe was ultimately done in by its own popularity. Numerous cheap imitations came on the market, the product became a health hazard to consumers, and both the Swiss and US governments ultimately banned it. In 2004, the Swiss government overturned the ban and Yves Kübler went back into business producing his great grandfather’s original formula.

“Swiss Absinthe Superieure Kübler” is liquor distilled with herbs grown in the Val-de-Travers. Artemisia Absinthium (more commonly know as wormwood) is the primary ingredient in a formula that also includes coriander, mint, anise and fennel among other herbs and botanicals. The price per liter is $49.99 and the alcohol level is high at 106 proof (53%).
 

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