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A dozen
complex red wines for winter
by Darryl Beeson

The
following red wines pack power and complexity, sometimes merely
gently, and may be priced accordingly for the fine quality. Serve
with lamb, Sonoma lamb if you can find some (even with the Napa
wines), or with lusty winter vegetable stews that include cracked
pepper and pinches of rosemary from the remaining garden. These reds
are perfect with flamed filet mignon or big, thick sirloin, seared
rare and cut upon the bias, then sprinkled with minced, fresh herbs.
Maybe consider a thick-crust gourmet version of a meat-lovers pizza,
sprinkled with fennel seed.
Arrowood Syrah 'Saralee's Vineyard' Russian River 2003
Price $36
Rating 97
Notice the intense blackberry, cassis, pepper, hints of leather and
exotic spice throughout the long, complex experience. To learn more,
visit www.arrowoodvineyards.com.
Shannon Ridge Syrah, High Valley 2006
Price $19
Rating 94
Situated high in the mountains of Clear Lake, California, this red
speaks of a specific origin. Steep slopes, great drainage and
volcanic soils contribute to the wine's uniqueness. Go to
www.shannonridge.com to learn more.
Ravenswood Syrah, Sonoma 2004
Price $18
Rating 93
Founder Joel Peterson boasts rightfully of this red's floral
complexity, smoke, along with concentrated, jammy black cherry.
There are hints of pepper and leather. This syrah has good, complex
length on the palate. Go to www.ravenswoodwinery.com.
Curtis Winery 'Heritage Cuvee' Santa Barbara 2005
Price $14
Rating 96
The blend is Rhone inspired, being 50% Grenache, 19% Syrah, 18%
Mourvedre and 13% Cinsaut. Wine maker Chuck Carlson is an important
part of California's so-called 'Rhone Ranger' wine movement.
Concentrated black fruit aromas with nuances of strawberry, exotic
spice, then big flavors of black cherry and blackberry with vanilla
and hints of tobacco. The wine is balanced, with soft tannins on the
finish. Learn more info at www.CurtisWinery.com.
Finca Sandoval Syrah, Manchuela 2001
Price $35
Rating 93
Note complex aromatics of earth, intense cassis and blackberry,
pepper, licorice, and a nuance of mocha or maybe chocolate, followed
by smooth tannins. This wine originates from east-central Spain from
an altitude of over 2,500 feet. It contains 7% Mourvedre grape to
offset the powerful Syrah. Being a work in progress, well-known
Spanish journalist Victor La Serna is bringing the world's attention
the long-forgotten Manchuela appellation. This, an older vintage,
maybe harder to locate. Any vintage will likely be impressive.
Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico, Tuscany 2004
Price $20
Rating 89
There are aromas of black cherry, plum, a touch of herb and oak
nuance. The very good concentration is nicely balanced with soft
tannins and crisp acidity. They have recently hired the renowned
consultant Riccardo Cotarella to assist in winemaking duties. As
Cotarella has a part in many of Italy's finest wines, look for those
of Castello di Volpaia to earn new levels of complexity and regard.
Gascon Malbec, Mendoza 2006
Price $12
Rating 89
The sip begins with blackberry and blueberry fruit followed by dark
chocolate and earthy notes throughout the finish. Green, herbal,
earthy aromas dominate the nose, saddled by black fruits and black
pepper. On the palate, it's all black, ripe fruit, with black
pepper, cedar spice and wrapped with ripe tannins and a good level
of acidity. Learn more at www.gasconwines.com.
Moon Mountain Estate Grown Malbec, Sonoma 2004
Price $45
Rating 94
The aromas and flavors are packed with dark, ripe fruit, with hints
of mocha and tobacco. The length is long and complex. High in the
Mayacamas Mountains on the western side of Mt. Veeder, more than
1,000 feet above the Sonoma Valley, Moon Mountain Vineyard has some
of the most difficult winegrowing conditions in California. Organic
farming keeps the vines in balance and healthy, while enhancing the
grapes' flavors. Details are at www.moonmountainvineyards.com.
Charles Joguet Chinon Cuvee Terroire, Loire 2005
Price $17
Rating 92
This is an old world, dank and sediment ladened red, perfect for old
world foods Black fruit and 'brett' are the order of the day. Learn
more at www.charlesjoguet.com. The wine is imported by Kermit Lynch.
Domaine Mark Kreydenweiss 'Perrieres' Costières de Nimes 2003
Price $17
Rating 93
Third generation Alsatian producer and fervent follower of Bioynamie
(strict biodynamic principles), Marc Kreydenweiss now spends quality
time in the South of France and crafts this red plum and blackberry
beauty from the Carignan, Grenache and Syrah grapes. The importer is
Wilson-Daniels.
Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2005
Price $28
Rating 93
This always dependable Cabernet is well-balanced, with concentrated
dark fruit, especially currant, black cherry, complex and elegant
earthiness, herbal nuances and cedar/vanilla oak notes. While
profoundly tannic, this luscious red has a balance of elegance and
refined grace that makes it smooth on the long, complexly layered
length. The blend is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5%
Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec and interestingly enough, 1%
Syrah.
Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2004
Price $125
Rating 95
This powerhouse of concentrated Napa Cabernet Sauvignon runs the
gamut of layers, complexities, ripe fruit and balanced, long-chain
tannins, There is an array of black fruit, fennel, brown spice and
cedar in the long, complex length. The blend is 86% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Go to
www.robertmondaviwinery.com.
For more great wine suggestions, click
here
Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions? Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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