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The Delicato wine story
by Darryl Beeson

Gasparé Indelicato
emigrated to California from a small village in Italy. He would grow
wine grapes like his father, grandfather, and several generations
before him had done. The first grapes for Delicato Family Vineyards
were planted in the spring of 1924.
His hard work was rewarded with more
orders than he could fill. During Prohibition, Gasparé's grapes were
sought after by home winemakers seeking quality grapes for home
winemaking and this business kept the vineyard operation solvent
when many of his neighbors struggled. But grape sales declined
during the Great Depression. In 1935, with Prohibition repealed,
Gasparé made the decision to turn a portion of his grapes into wine,
using techniques his father had taught him. In the old haybarn by
the vineyard, Gasparé, his brother-in-law, and their twin wives took
turns with a hand driven press to produce their first vintage.
Today, Delicato is one of the leading
family winegrowers in America, with members of the second and third
generation of Indelicato family actively involved in the business.
The winery harvests more than 10,000 acres of vineyard estates
across the top regions of California, ranging from the coastal cool
of the legendary San Bernabe vineyard in Monterey, one of
California's oldest grape-growing regions, to Clay Station, a
remarkable vineyard property located in the rolling foothills East
of Lodi.
The 2005 Delicato Pinot Grigio ($8)
"exhibits lifted aromas of pear, ginger and orange blossom, while
the palate has concentrated citrus flavors of orange and lemon,"
says director of winemaking Tim Wong.
The "Irony" Napa Valley Chardonnay 2004
($13) by Delicato boasts layers of juicy tropical fruit with citrus,
green apples and mineral notes. The crisp fruit is balanced by a
creamy finish. Enjoy with salad, oysters, mild cheeses, grilled
fish, roasted chicken, creamy pastas or on its own!
Napa Valley is known for producing
wines of great character and quality due to its location. The
combination of climate – hot summer days, cool, windy evenings and
foggy mornings. Napa’s famous fog is particularly evident in this
region and ensures a long growing season for the grapes, balanced
and elegant.
Delicato's Gnarly Head Old Vine
Zinfandel, Lodi 2005 ($8) is named for the Zinfandel vines grown as
free standing “head trained” vines – the ones with twisted old
trunks and branches that reach out in all directions. "The grapes
from these brash old vines create quaffable Zin with concentrated
fruit," says Wong.
The 2005 Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel
is crafted from grapes from 35-to 80-year-old vines. Rich, dark
berry flavors from the small grape clusters are aged in French,
American and Hungarian oak, which is said to create layers of plum,
pepper and chocolate. This concentrated combination provides a
lingering and spicy finish on the palate. Serve this one with lusty
barbeque, grilled vegetables or gourmet hamburgers.
During California’s Gold Rush, Lodi’s
Clay Station stagecoach stop was a gateway to the Bay Area, where
people from across the U.S. sought gold, vineyard land and
entrepreneurial endeavors. "The journey to Clay Station was an
adventure across unexplored terrain to parts unknown," explains
Wong. "All of this in the name of a new beginning and better
opportunities."
In the early 90s, the Indelicato family
went on a similar journey in search of the ideal vineyard. "In Lodi,
we found land untouched and overgrown with grasses, iron-rich,
gravelly clay soils interlaced with granite and stone cobbles, being
perfect for growing grapes," concludes Wong. The promising land at
Clay Station beckoned them to produce new grape varieties, fusing
California winemaking style with Old World varietals, be that Old
vine Zinfandel a la Italy/Croatia, Viognier and Syrah from Southern
France, Malbec from Bordeaux, Pinot Gris and Petite Sirah from the
Rhône.
The 2004 Clay Station Petite Sirah
($12) is a bold, powerful wine with intense black cherry, chocolate
and espresso notes and nuances of vanilla, toast and pepper on the
finish. The full-bodied fruit character is balanced with velvety
tannins from French and Hungarian oak, for a wine that is big in
structure, flavor and finish. The exact blend is 79% Petite Sirah,
17% Syrah, 4% other red varietals. Pair this with flame grilled
steaks, meat-lover's pizza, or grilled chicken with fresh rosemary.
Clay Station 2005 Viognier ($8)
exhibits delicate aromas of white peach, honeysuckle and jasmine on
the nose. These aromatics are complemented by flavors of juicy
apricot and peach. The concentrated fruit character of this wine is
balanced with a crisp acidity, making this Viognier very elegant and
a perfect match for a variety of dishes, including pasta with shrimp
in olive oil, cold pasta salad, sauteed chicken or fish, as well as
grilled vegetables.
Learn more at www.delicato.com.
For more great wine suggestions, click
here
Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions? Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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