Washington State wine round-up by Darryl Beeson Located on approximately the same latitude (46ºN) as some of the great  French wine regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy, Washington State wine country  includes nine federally recognized American Viticultural Areas (AVAs),  commonly known as appellations; three of them share territory with Oregon  State. Climates of individual Washington wine regions differ dramatically,  being cross cut north to south by the Cascade Mountains.   A variety of climates and soils combine with the long summer sunlight hours  of northern latitudes to create prime growing regions, predominantly in the  valleys and on the hillsides of areas east of the Cascade Mountain range.  Washington wineries benefit from grapes ripening in these areas which  experience about two more hours of summer sunlight each day than in  California wine regions. Gradually cooling Autumn temperatures in Washington  also help wine grapes reach full maturity, while maintaining desirable acid levels.   Vineyards on the east side of the Cascades grow 99% of Washington's wine  grapes. Seven of the state's eight official AVA/appellations are located  here -- the macro appellation of the Columbia Valley encompasses the smaller  Yakima Valley AVA, Red Mountain AVA, Walla Walla Valley AVA, Horse Heaven  Hills, Wahluke Slope and Rattlesnake Hills (Washington State's newest  appellation). The Columbia Gorge AVA begins at the western edge of the  Columbia Valley AVA and continues west and south to areas along the Columbia  River in both Oregon and Washington. Two other emerging regions benefit from  the huge rain shadow created by the Cascade Mountains, the North-Central  Washington region (often referred to as the Columbia Cascade region) and the Lake Chelan area (AVA application in process).   All totaled, Washington wine regions produce more wine grapes than any other state in the U.S., except California. Wine grapes are now the fourth most important fruit crop in Washington State behind apples, cherries and pears. The following wines are in limited distribution. Look for them when in Washington state.   Griffins Crossing Cabernet Blend, Columbia Valley 2004 Price $22 Rating 87 The nose offers black cherry, cranberry and freshly tilled top-soil from the garden. The sip is soft, perhaps a bit diluted. Serve with firm fleshed fish, sauteed, or with make chicken laced with rosemary. More details are at www.griffinscrossing.com.   XSV Chardonnay, Columbia Valley 2003 Price $18 Rating 90 The nose gives cinnamon, banana, pear and vanilla laced within toasty oak. The sip is soft and expansive with more tropical fruit and brown spice within the good length. Go to their website at www.xsvintners.com.   XSV Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2002 Price $23 Rating 92 The nose is somber and reserved with black fruit and nuances of earth. There are flavors of black fruit, mocha and more earth in the elegant, long length. The tannins are soft, so serve this one with filet of beef, veal chop or even firmly fleshed, non-oily fish. Go to their website at www.xsvintners.com.   Willow Crest "Rocking Red" Yakima Valley 2003 Price $10 Rating 88 The nose is spicy with wild-like berry fruit. The sip is light and bright with cranberry and tart plum. Learn more at www.willowcrestwinery.com.   Willow Crest Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley 2005 Price $10 Rating 90 The nose displays crisp, citrus-like fruit and mineral. The style is a little more delicate than the Pinot Gris from Oregon. The sip is refreshing and interesting with different layers in the medium long length. Learn more at www.willowcrestwinery.com.   Roza Ridge Vienyards Merlot, Yakima Valley 2002 Price $19 estimated Rating 86 A sniff reveals earthy notes with briar-patch fruit nuances. The sip is very light with raspberry and mocha notes. The tannins are soft, so serve this one with filet of beef, veal chop or even firmly fleshed, non-oily fish.   Whitman Cellars "Narcissa" Red Wine, Walla Walla 2003 Price $28 Rating 92 The blend is 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 20% Syrah, aged 18 months in French and American barrels. The nose offers soft earth and slight hints of dark fruit. There are flavors of blackberry, black cherry, baker's chocolate and mineral in the long, delicate length.   This wine is named for Narcissa Whitman, a frontier-woman and wife of missionary Marcus Whitman. She and another woman were the first Caucasian women to cross the Rocky Mountains and settle in what is now Walla Walla, Washington (1836). Visit the website at www.whitmancellars.com.   Pentin del Roza White Riesling, Yakima Valley 2005 Price $13 Rating 89 The sip is driven by subtle green apple and mineral. The wine is chewy and complex on the palate.   Sandhill Merlot, Red Mountain 2002 Price $26 Rating 91 The nose is somber and complex with ripe plum and mineral. The sip is delicate with dark fruit, mocha and mineral in the medium to good length. --- Darryl Beeson travels the world, looking for great wine finds. He is a sommelier, a professional wine judge, and teaches for The International Sommelier Guild (www.internationalsommelier.com). 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