Valdepeñas, undiscovered wines from Spain Edited by Darryl Beeson Though Spain has more acreage under vine than France or Italy, it produces  less wine than either due to the harsher, drier land. Until recently, the only wines that were recognized internationally were Sherry and Rioja.  Things are changing quickly as other regions (there are around twenty five  total) of Spain have moved from generic and bulk wine production towards  higher quality wines. They have undertaken savvy, aggressive marketing and  the word is spreading.   La Mancha, as in Don Quixote and Dulcinea, is a plateau stretching  south-eastwards from Madrid  to Valencia on the Mediterranean coast.  Valdepeñas, a town around two hours south of Madrid, the name meaning 'stony  valley', gives its name to the surrounding region.   The climate of Valdepeñas is continental, with rainfall rare and vast  temperature differences between day and night. The yields are low, therefore  the wines can have a concentration of flavor and color. The wines of the  Valdepeñas historically were light, simple wines, lacking acidity, best  consumed young. Today they are sometimes producing wines suitable for  ageing, comparable to wines from the Rioja region of Spain.   Valdepeñas, the town, has plenty of bodegas. One can still see a "pellejo"  in use, a container made from the whole hide of a goat. They make good,  air-tight containers in which the wine keeps well, though the image may be a  bit disturbing.   Palacio de Ibor, Valdepeñas 2000 Price $16 Rating 89 The vineyard has fifty-year-old vines. There is 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. The reserva is aged one year in French Oak and twenty four months of bottle age. The sip has a brightness of red fruit. This red needs some more aging.   Finca Marisanchez Chardonnay, Castilla 2004 Price $10 Rating 88 The nose is fresh and delicate with pear and other tree fruit. The sip is chewy and rich with citrus, apple and nougat. The wine is complex from yeasty lees contact.   Finca Marisanchez Roble, Castilla 2004 Price $20 Rating 88 The blend includes 10% Merlot and 5% Syrah. The nose is closed. The sip is light and slightly over powered by the oak (six months). Allow this red to age. The flavors are earthy with black fruit, closing out with a hint of mint.   Vega Ibor Crianza en Barrica, Castilla 2003 Price $9 Rating 88 The nose is delicate with earth and dark fruit. The sip is well balanced with earthy black fruit. The U.S. Importer is Grape Expectations Wine.   Alaris Blanco Chardonnay, Bodegas Arúspide, Tierra de Castilla 2005 Price $9 Rating 82 The flavors are a little dis-jointed. This white wine lacks crispness. There are nuances of over-ripe melon.   Agora Lagrima, Bodegas Arúspide, Valdepeñas 2005 Price $7 Rating 85 The flavors are floral. The wine from this grape typically lacks acidity.   Agora Joven Tempranillo, Bodegas Arúspide, Valdepeñas 2005 Price $12 Rating 88 The aromas are creamy and bright, like raspberry jam served with Brie. The sip is soft, with nuances of bright red fruit.   Bodegas Miguel Calatayud Seleccion Macabeo, Castilla 2002 Price $9 Rating 90 Though not yet imported into the U.S., watch for this white. The nose offers delicate spice, melon and nougat. The sip is earthy and full of citrus with ripe melon. Bodegas Miguel Calatayud "Vegaval Plata" Tinto Gran Reserva, Valdepeñas 1996 Price $16 Rating 92 The aromas are big and concentrated with a spectrum of ripe fruit. The sip is chewy with red fruit, dried fruit and hints of exotic tobacco and spice.   Bodegas Félix Solís Vina Albali Blanco Airen, Valdepeñas 2005 Price $7 Rating 91 The nose offers melon,floral and delicate spice. The sip is full of ripe melon with citrus. Visit the website at www.felixsolis.com.   Bodegas Félix Solís Analivia Sauvignon Blanc, Rueda 2005 Price $8 Rating 88 There are delicate nuances of fruit wrapped within good, crisp acidity.   Bodegas Félix Solís Tempranillo, Valdepeñas 2005 Price $7 Rating 86 There are creamy, earthy nuances of red fruit jam and Brie cheese.   Bodegas Félix Solís Albali Arium Crianza, Valdepeñas 2002 Price $8 Rating 89 Bright red fruit flavors are followed by complex nuances of chocolate or mocha. Bodegas Viña Albali Gran Reserva, Valdepeñas 1995 Price $20 Rating 93 The blend contains 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose is dusty, earth with elegance, dark fruit aromas. The sip is powerful with complex, dark fruit and exotic spice notes. The length on the palate is long.   Bodegas Navarro López "Rojo" Garnacha, Valdepeñas 2005 Price $5.99 Rating 88 The aromas are of dark fruitand mineral. The luscious sip paints the palate with red fruit and orange/citrus nuances. Learn more at www.navarrolopez.com. They are imported into the U.S. by Quintessential Importers.   Bodegas Navarro López Old Vines Crianza Tempranillo, Valdepeñas 2001 Price $8.99 Rating 89 The nose offers notes of red fruit and mint. Mineral leads within the sip, with redfruit and a touch of menthol in the hotish, but longish length.   Bodegas Navarro López Old Vines Reserva Tempranillo, Valdepeñas 2000 Price $10.99 Rating 91 The nose is subtle with fresh tilled garden earth and nuances of toasted oak. Bright red fruit enters with the complex and interesting sip.   Bodegas Navarro López "Premium 1904" Valdepeñas 2005 Price $24 Rating 94 The blend includes 25% Syrah. It is aged two months in French oak barrels. The nose is earthy and deep. The sip is intense with all manner of complex fruit, mocha, earthy mineral and well-balanced tannins. Corcova Tempranillo Crianza, Valdepeñas 2002 Price $12.99 Rating 92 The aromas are deep with black fruit and prune. The sip is powerful with dark fruit, dusty mineral and delicate notes of dried fruit, maybe raisins.   Corcova Tempranillo Reserva, Valdepeñas 2000 Price $15.99 Rating 92 The aromas are powerful with a spectrum of bright and darker fruits. There are hottish flavors of prune, mocha and dusty earth in the long, complex finish.   Armonioso Rosado Joven, Valdepeñas 2005 Price $8 Rating 87 The sip is delicate with nuances of red fruit. This particular wine is not yet sold in the U.S., but the producer is represented by M Importers.   Bodegas Los Llanos "Pata Negra" Valdepeñas 2005 Price $10.99 Rating 86 The sip is delicate with nuances of red fruit, made in a more modern technique than they have used before.   Senorio de los Llanos Tempranillo Grand Reserva, Valdepeñas 2000 Price $15.99 Rating 90 The top cuvees matured in French oak giving added smoothness and sophistication, this red wine drinks like velvet with ripe, red fruit in the background. 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