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Inama re-defines Soave
Edited
by Darryl Beeson

"Soave, from the
Veneto in North East Italy, has a reputation for producing
rather neutral, boring white wines," observes wine guru Robert
Parker. "It’s partly deserved. Pop into your local supermarket
and buy their cheapest Soave. It will be a commodity wine,
with some fresh acidity but rather neutral flavors...But to
dismiss all Soave as dull and uninteresting would be doing a
great disservice to those producers who are doing good work here.
What this tasting showed is that the Garganega grape, often with
some help from a bit of Chardonnay or some new French oak, can
make profound white
wines packed full of flavor and interest." Consider the wines from
Azienda Agricola Inama.
The Inama estate was founded in 1960 by
Giuseppe Inama, who owned 30 hectar
of vines in the heart of the Soave Classico region, predominantly on
the highly regarded Monte Foscarino. He handed the reigns to
his son in 1992, who has continued to tend to the family's
vines.
Stefano Inama contends that "Most
people in the world want predictable wines. I want to make
wines that are bloody different, and wines that are different
from year to year." He has taken the region's classic varietal of
Garganega, along with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, catching the
attention of the world's top wine producers. Learn more at
www.inamaaziendaagricola.it.
Inama Soave Classico, Verona 2004
Price $12.99
Rating 91
Made from hand-harvested pergola-trained Garganega grapes, fermented
and
aged in stainless steel, this crisp white wine has a distinctive
herbal edge
to the nose. The sip is rounded and rich with lots of flavor and a
mineral
edge. Enjoy this concentrated white wine with breaded and fried
squid, pasta
in light or white sauces, or with hard Italian cheese shaved thin.
Inama Soave Classico, Verona 2003
Price $13.99
Rating 91
The grape blend is primarily Gargenaga and Trebbiano. The flavors
are two
diverse opposites: bright citrus countered by resounding earthiness.
Overall, the wine is complex and pleasing.
Inama "Foscarino" Soave Superiore, Veneto 2003
Price $19
Rating 93
Made from a selection of old vines grown at the top of Monte
Foscarino,
pergola trained Garganega grapes, this white wine is remarkable
forward with
an herbacious nose, being nutty and complex. The sip is concentrated
and
rich, again with a spicy, herbal nuance.
Inama "Vigneto du Lot" Soave Superiore, Veneto 2002
Price $24
Rating 94
This assertive white wine is from an experimental vineyard planted
in 1993.
Instead of pergola training, the Garganega grapes are grown in a
permanent
cordon and are spur pruned. After fermentation, 50% new Allier oak
is used.
Take a sip and experience the strikingly rich herbal, toasty and
nutty nose.
Inama "Vulcia Fume" Sauvignon Blanc, Veneto
Price $14
Rating 92
Stefano Inama is one of the most important vintners of Veneto, with
ownership of a number of prime vineyard sites, including a section
of vines
in Monte Foscarino, the best of Soave's top cru. Sauvignon Blanc,
however,
is one of his specialities. The nose is ripe and rich, with some
evidence of
yeasty "lees" contact. There's a tropical character to the fruit,
perhaps
mango, with a touch of rich cream. Bright elements with firm grip
and fresh,
juicy, citrus-like acidity extend through the good length.
Serve these brilliant white wines with
grilled seafood, delicate pasta in
lemon and olive oil, veal cutlets or with three cheese pizza. Serve
them
with either soft goat cheese or with hard Romano, or especially
Asiago
thinly sliced.
For more great wine suggestions, click
here
Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions? Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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