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Tormaresca brings Puglia to your
door
Edited
by Darryl Beeson

Puglia (Apulia as
it is called in English) is Italy's boot heel, located in the
southeastern most region of the nation. It has been conquered by
legions of foreign rulers, most of whom were careful to live
elsewhere. The notable exception was Frederick II (1194-1250), the
last Emperor of the Hohenstaufen line. An enlightened man, he built
many castles which still grace the region, along with acres and
acres of vineyards and olive groves. Puglia (pronounced "pool-ya")
produces one-tenth of the wine consumed in Europe. Its olive oil is
renowned. Traditionally both of these commodities were mainly used
to dilute, or improve, their counterparts to the north. But lately
the local food artisans have begun creating some important oils and
vintages. These complement the fresh seafood and vegetables that are
the staples of "la tavola pugliese."
In ancient times only the northern part
of the region was called Apulia. The southern peninsula was known as
Calabria, a name later used to designate the toe of the Italian
"boot." The region was settled by several Italic peoples and by the
colonial Greeks before it was conquered in the 4th century B.C. by
the Romans. After the fall of Rome, Apulia was held successively by
the Goths, the Lombards, and the Byzantines. In the 11th century, it
was conquered by the Normans; Robert Guiscard set up the duchy of
Apulia in 1059. After the Norman conquest of Sicily in the late 11th
century, Palermo replaced Melfi (just west of present day Apulia) as
the center of Norman power, and Apulia became a mere province, first
of the Kingdom of Sicily, then of the Kingdom of Naples. The wines
are much less confusing.
Tormaresca, the wine, is named after
the sea-facing towers built as lookout posts during Italy's feudal
history. Piero Antinori, president of Marchesi Antinori, founded
Tormaresca when he purchased the extensive property and vineyards.
26 generations of the Antinori family have produced excellent wine.
620 years allows for plenty of practice.
Tormaresca Chardonnay, Puglia 2004
Price $10
Rating 91
The nose is complex with menthol and mint, then butter hints and
tree fruit like pear and crisp apple. This refreshing white wine
invites various food combinations. Consider grilled seafood, pasta
with scallops in arich cream sauce, or with freshly grilled
vegetables. Also consider Gargonzola stuffed chicken breast, served
with tabouleh. Include a cream sauce with mushrooms. This wine is
ranked as an I.G.T.
Tormaresca Rosso Negroamaro-Cabernet Sauvignion, Puglia 2003
Price $10
Rating 91
The nose is earthy with tree bark and fresh herbs. The sip is bitter
with complex layers of fruit. The balance of the two is most
pleasing. Dark fruit and mineral appear in the good finish. There is
added a relatively small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) to
the Negroamaro for the basic everyday wine of the house, with
attractive berry fruit, zesty Mediterranean herbs, and anise in the
aromas along with interesting flavors throughout the good length.
The fruit is very present.
Serve this rustic red with pasta,
especially tortellini. Include mushrooms, either in the sauce, or
with the pasta's stuffing. This wine is ranked as an I.G.T.
Tormaresca Torcicoda Primitivo, Puglia 2003
Price $21
Rating 94
The aromas are a wide spectrum of red fruiy and exotic spice. The
sip is chewy raspberry jam and complex mineral. There are bright
flavors of cherry and earthy compost. The tannins are balanced, and
the fruit elements are present.
Big, blackberry fruits join with hints
of licorice and cedar, followed by an enduring, velvety finish. As
with so many Italian reds, it shows a slight edge of tannin and
acidity, but they are well-integrated and help the wine match
beautifully with rich winter fare. This wine is ranked as an I.G.T.
Tormaresca Bocca di Lupo Aglianico, Puglia 2002
Price $28
Rating 93
The nose is earthy and complex. The fruits are well evolved and
complex, as well. The sip reveals well balanced tannins and ripe,
earthy fruit. The exact blend is 90% Aglianico and 10% Cabernet
Sauvignon. The Bocca di Lupo is a wine which demonstrates that the
Aglianico grown in the northwestern part of Puglia, just a short
distance from the Basilicata, can be world-class.
Serve this mineral driven red with
seared veal steak, wrapped in spinach leaf, or with roasted chicken
in fresh herbs. Also consider lusty sausage with hard Italian
cheese. This wine is ranked as an D.O.C.
Tormaresca Maime Negromaro, Puhlia 2002
Price $28
Rating 94
The nose is earthy with spice. Spiciness is typical of the grape.
The sip expands with prune and black fruit. The long finish ends
with menthol and mineral.
Serve this robust red with thick beef
steak, roasted vegetables and hearty risotto. Serve, also, with beef
sausage and hard Italian cheese. Also consider wild game in a tomato
sauce poured over al dente pasta. This wine is ranked as an I.G.T.
For more great wine suggestions, click
here
Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions? Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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