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South
African wines that shine
by Darryl Beeson

The first European settlers arrived at the Cape of Good Hope in 1652
to set up a harbor and garden for Dutch East Indian Company whose ships passed around the Cape on the way to the Spice Colonies in the
East. Retired employees of the company were issued grants of land by
the governor and settled the Cape colony.
Politics, and just plain distance, have hindered the wines from
South Africa from being better understood in other parts of the
world. These, the following, are truly world class, and affordable!
Neil Ellis “Sincerely” Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa 2004
Price $14.99
Rating 91
Neil Ellis is a respected maker of wine. This “Sincerely” is his
effort in the style of a French Loire white wine from Sancerre.
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. First steely,
demonstrating flinty minerals and lots of crisp acidity, followed by
fruit like gooseberry and bitter lime, then herbaceous undertones
and a nuance of tropical, all aspects well balanced.
Crisp, herbaceous and complex, the sip does justice to the honoree.
This dry white will work with seafood and poultry. Oysters, please!
Neil Ellis Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2003
Price $17.99
Rating 92
“Burgundian aromas of apricot, smoke and hazelnut. Rich and densely
packed, with pineapple and grapefruit flavors, along with emerging
notes of lemon and lime, all nicely shaped by firm acidity,” says
noted reviewer Stephen Tanzer
Light goldish green. Very youthful lime/melon aromas and some
subdued oak. Pleasing ripe melon/tropical fruit flavors, restrained
mineral elements with fine length and elegance.
Hamilton Russell Chardonnay, Walker Bay, South Africa 2004
Price $28.99
Rating 95
This magnificent white wine drinks like a sophisticated and lusty
Meursault from France’s Burgundy region. “A tight, minerally wine
with classic Hamilton Russell Vineyards length and complexity,” says
the winery. “A stand-out core of intense grapefruit and pear aromas
and flavors are brought beautifully into focus by a tight line of
natural acid,that combines with dry, pebbly characters. An elegant,
yet textured wine with a strong personality of both place and
vintage.”
Rust en Vrede “Estate Bottled” Red Stellenbosch 2001
Price $42
Rating 90
“The blend is 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Shiraz and 12% Merlot,”
explains wine maker Louis Strydom. This red has ripe and rich aromas
of black fruit, cassis and gentle mint. The sip is full of dark
fruit, slight but balanced oak, integrated tannins, all within a
long, complex finish.
Specializing in the production of red wine only, Rust en Vrede has
garnered a reputation as one of South Africa’s premium red wine
estates. Complete and complex, the wines reflect the uniqueness of
the Stellenbosch terroir. Rust en Vrede has a remarkable three
hundred year tradition and pursues excellence.
Goats du Roam Red, South Africa 2002
Price $10
Rating 90
This red is dark, juicy and explodes with red and leathery, dark
fruit. It is a salute to the red wines from France’s Rhone Valley.
Serve with wild game or even pizza. Maybe even cabrito!
The blend includes Pinotage, Shiraz, Cinsault, Grenache and Carignan.
The grapes were harvested from vineyards in the Paarl, Pedeberg and
Malmesbury regions, sourced from dry farmed old bush vines. These
are mostly vineyards with small cropping levels resulting in wine
with considerable concentration.
Porcupine Ridge Syrah, Coastal Region, South Africa 2003
Price $10.99
Rating 91
Butcher shop elements, spicy dark fruit nose, this affordable red is
concentrated and appealing. Ripe, concentrated fruit then leather
and, at the end, cocoa, all are found in this meaty red wine.
This is a “Cape answer to northern Rhône Syrah,” says UK wine expert
Jancis Robinson, “very gentle, early-maturing certainly, rich and
lively, presenting a great big mouthful of fruit but without
heaviness or an excess of either alcohol or tannin.” It’s made by
Marc Kent of Boekenhoutskloof, South Africa’s leading producer of
Syrah “who has real sensibility when it comes to vinifying this
grape,” adds Robinson.
For more great wine suggestions, click
here
Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions? Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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