Banfi- bigger means better  by Darryl Beeson Castello Banfi is a rarity among Italian wine estates, not just because of its huge size (some 7,100 acres, of which around 2,400 are planted with vines), its composition of single vineyards, or its state-of-the-art winery, but because it was started from scratch less than 20 years ago by an American family. Most of the land was covered with forest and brush when the Mariani family found it. They instinctively recognized that the site was exactly what they had been searching for.  Castello Banfi Principessa Gavia, Gavi, Piedmont DOCG 2002  Price $14  Rating 88  Appealing aromas of limestone and citrus are followed by flavors of mineral, tropical kiwi and lime. "Principessa is fruity, fresh and crisp with a gentle acidity and balanced finish," says assistant winemaker Lucio Matricardi. "An ideal accompaniment with all shellfish, it also marries well with fish, veal and grilled chicken, as well as with the delicate flavor variations of Japanese cuisine."  Castello Banfi "Centine", Tuscany IGT 2002  Price $12  Rating 89  A blend of 60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, the grapes develop from the calcareous soil and temperate micro-climate of Tuscany. The wine boasts appealing approachability and fruitiness.  "Centine is a bright ruby-red youthful wine, intensely fruity with a lingering finish, a testament to its overall balance" describes assistant winemaker Lucio Matricardi. "It is an ideal companion to pasta, grilled or roasted red and white meats."  Castello Banfi "Col-di-Sasso" Tuscany 2002  Price $10  Rating 89  Col-di-Sasso, which translates to "stony hill," is a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes cultivated on the most rocky and impervious slopes of the Banfi estate in Montalcino, Tuscany.  "Typically harvested in early October, each grape variety is vinified separately. The Sangiovese imparts body, while stainless steel aged Cabernet Sauvignon adds fruit and structure.," reveals assistant winemaker Lucio Matricardi. "Col-di-Sasso is a youthful red to be enjoyed with grilled or roasted meats, poultry, or as an ideal accompaniment to pasta with meat sauce and mildly piquant cheeses."  "The most important aspect of wine process is to have grapes that express the typical style.," adds Matricardi. "The Sangiovese is such an ancient variety that, over centuries, different clones developed. Individuals adapted to particular environments, though genetically they are the same." Castello Banfi has conducted clonal selection tests with close to 650 different plants seeking the most desirable.  The region's farmers had made wine for centuries. Their red, called vermiglio, played a small role in the siege of 1553, when the garrison commander, pale with tension and hunger, rubbed it into his cheeks, thus simulating a healthy complexion to reassure his troops. A side note is that in the 1600's, the English Kings Charles II and William III favored a wine they called "Mont Alchin." Moscadelletto, a sweet white dessert wine, was praised by the poet Francesco Redi, and is re-created in present time as a moscadello Banfi calls simply "B."  Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany DOCG 1999  Price $55  Rating 92  Ponderous aromas of blackberry, mushrooms, tobacco are followed by flavors of bright, vibrant fruit, black cherry, red cherry, green tobacco. This is more delicate than some other Brunello tasted recently. It possesses a rich garnet color, and a depth, complexity and opulence that is softened by an elegant, lingering aftertaste. Demand for wines from this historic zone has caused prices to continue to rise, especially after the 1997, a vintage of a lifetime.  "A breakthrough came in the late 1800s, when attention was focused in Montalcino on the Brunello grape, actually Sangioveto Grosso, a clone of Chianti's Sangiovese," explains assistant winemaker Lucio Matricardi. "This superior variety, carefully handled and extra-aged, yields superior wine, but news spread slowly because Italy's reputation in the wine world was held down by overproduction and lack of regulation." Brunello di Montalcino was Italy's first wine to be accorded the premiere D.O.C.G. status, a testament to its aristocracy, balance and fabulous proclivity for aging. Some consider this wine to be the most respected red of Italy. Aged for a total of up to four years, including a minimum of two years in oak barrels.  For a small town fortressed upon a big hill, Montalcino has a large share of history. Her citizens were proudly anti-fascist in the 1920s, and they stubbornly resisted the Germans during World War II. But her proudest moments occurred during the frequent clashes of the Renaissance's great city-states. The BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO wine is just as fiesty.  For more great wine suggestions, click here Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions? Email: jwdineline@aol.com Copyright © 1998 Inter Active Media Solutions. All Rights Reserved. The interactive components of this site require that you use a current browser version of Explorer; be sure to maximize your window out so you can see the entire page. This page was created by Inter Active Media Solutions.