Nothin' Could be Sweeta' than a Glass of Liparita  by Darryl Beeson  In 1987 Liparita Cellars produced 100 cases from the first crop of chardonnay under their label. The Liparita name derives from the Sicilian island of Lipari (mod. Isolta Lipari), which serves as the namesake for the Howell Mountain winery founded in 1888. The volcanic soils of this tiny island were reminiscent of those found on the Howell Mountain property.  Liparita Chardonnay Beckstoffer Carneros Lake Vineyard 2000  Price $30  Rating 91  Aromas of fresh thyme with hints of cashew butter, then flavors of Asian pear, hazelnut, refined oak elements and more diverse white fruit and tropical through the resounding length.  "This is the fourth crop we have harvested from the Beckstoffer 'Carneros Lake' Vineyard. These vines are growing in some of Napa Valley's southern-most lands, just north of San Pablo Bay. Located so close to San Francisco, the cool climate allows for a gradual development of grape flavors and ripeness coupled with low yields." observes winemaker Kerry Signoracci. "We mix two clones of Chardonnay, the Robert Young clone and the Dijon #76 clone, to achieve a well-balanced wine with natural fruit and acidity, plus the added richness from fermenting and aging in French oak barrels, and partial malo-lactic fermentation. A creamy vanilla, apple pie aroma rises from the glass when first poured. The Malo-lactic fermentation and nine months of barrel aging create a rich and mouth-filling palate balanced with a spicy acidity. Caramel apple, lemon curd, pineapple and spice flavors contribute to one of our finest chardonnays to date."  Liparta Merlot, Napa Valley 1999  Price $28  Rating 92  Aromas of French plum and subtle black olive, then flavors of earthy plum and blueberry, ending with intense elements of elegant cocoa powder.  "Over the years we have produced merlot from vineyards that give us intense flavors and structure from a grape that is stereotyped as the soft, simple cousin to cabernet sauvignon," says winemaker Kerry Signoracci. "This year is no exception. With a combination of Carneros and hillside vineyards, this wine is an example of great concentration and character. Condensed aromas of black cherry, vanilla, jam and licorice are present in this intensely colored merlot. A broad palate of flavors in the mouth accompanies the firm, medium-heavy structure. Cherry and currant tones are evidence of ripe fruit. Chocolate and tobacco notes contribute to a rich, well- balanced wine that shows an attractive oak contribution and a polish from the 14 months of bottle age prior to release."  Liparita Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 1999  Price $30  Rating 92  A beautiful, seemless nose of black olive and dark currant, then flavors of cocoa dusted raspberries, refined leather, currant, black olive and nice earthiness through the good length.  "This Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon is a blend of several mountain and valley vineyards, creating a complex and balanced wine." explains winemaker Kerry Signoracci. "My goal was to layer the wine with flavors from the individual vineyards on Spring Mountain, Howell Mountain, Pope Valley, Rutherford and St. Helena. In addition, the contribution of Merlot from Carneros and Napa increases the complexity and richness. Our wines have their beginning in the vineyard with mature, flavorful fruit."  Signoracci adds that "this vintage was a great example of what ripe fruit contributes to a wine. Along with the aromas from the barrels like cedar, toast and vanilla, this wine has black fruit, cassis, cherry, cocoa and spice. Plenty of dense but velvety tannins are balanced with the broad mouth of flavors and long finish. This cabernet sauvignon is has often been described as yummy, a technical enology term, and will continue to improve with cellaring." The Wine Spectator rated the 1999 cabernet sauvignon as one of the best under $50. Both the 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Reserve received 90 points from The Wine Spectator.  Liparita Cabernet Sauvignon "Vineyard Reserve" Napa, 1998  Price $50  Rating 93  Ponderous aromas of freshly tilled garden soil with tapinade/olive complexity, then flavors of bright red fruit, like raspberries dusted in cocoa powder, along with black cherry, currant and a touch of mint/pepper in the long finish.  "Liparita's 1998 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of our best barrels." boasts winemaker Kerry Signoracci. "During the barrel aging of this wine, each vineyard's wine is kept separate from harvest through the 21 months of cellaring. In preparation for bottling we select our favorite barrels, predominately new oak, and experiment with trial blends. This year we had less to work with due to the impact of El Nino and made a blend that is half from the mountain vineyards and half from valley vineyards."  For more information, visit www.liparita.com. Call the winery at 800-LIPARITA or 707-963-2775.  For more great wine suggestions, click here Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions? Email: jwdineline@aol.com Copyright © 1998 Inter Active Media Solutions. All Rights Reserved. The interactive components of this site require that you use a current browser version of Explorer; be sure to maximize your window out so you can see the entire page. This page was created by Inter Active Media Solutions.