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Kirralaa and Talomas: Trans-Pacific Wines
by Darryl Beeson
California’s Robert Mondavi and Australia’s Rosemount have crafted an impressive joint venture , with Australian-born Ian Shepherd as winemaker for this trans-Pacific portfolio of wines. Formerly winemaker at Seven Peaks, a California winery owned by Rosemount's parent company, Shepherd makes two vintages a year, one in California (Talomas) and one in Australia (Kirralaa). Kirralaa (pronounced KEER-a-LA) is from the Aboriginal language, referring to the “flying fish” constellation, only visible from south of the equator. Talomas (ta-LO-mas) is derived from a regional Native-American word for wildcat. Websites are anticipated at www.kirralaa.com and www.talomas.com.
Other important Mondavi wine joint ventures are Opus One in partnership with the Baroness Philippine de Rothschild of Chateau Mouton Rothschild (France), Caliterra in partnership with the Eduardo Chadwick family of Viña Errazuriz (Chile) and Luce in partnership with the Frescobaldi family of Marchesi de' Frescobaldi (Italy). This latest joint venture is, again, one to watch for impressive wines. The Kirralaa/Talomas wines are being introduced at prices well below their quality level and will likely rise in price in the next two or three years.
Kirralaa Chardonnay, Hunter Valley, Adelaide Hills 2002
Price $13.99
Rating 90
Clean, crisp flavors of white fruit, with hazelnut, apricot and marmalade hints, this white could easily compete with wines priced above $20. It is complex and lingering on the palate.
Kirralaa Merlot, Clare Valley, Adelaide Hills 2002
Price $14.99
Rating 90
There are rich aromas of plum, and dare say some red dust a la Coonawarra, followed by flavors of chewy red fruit, mineral, cocoa powder and briar-like dried fruit notes during the long minty finish. This a noteworthy red.
Kirralaa Bushvine Shiraz, Coonawarra, McLaren Vale, Margaret River 2001
Price $14.99
Rating 91
There are impressive aromas of deep blackberry with nuances of Asian spice and black pepper, accented by high notes of red cherry. Then follows flavors of complex briar fruit and earthy tar, with a touch of black pepper in the long, seemingly melodic finish.
Kirralaa Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale 2001
Price $14.99
Rating 93
A sniff reveals a powerful nose of rich cassis and a dose of dust, not unlike a Napa/Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon, but this is pure Aussie. There are flavors of chewy red fruit, raisin, liquorice, dried cherry and blackberry in the long, complex length.
Talomas Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, Santa Barbara, Mendocino, Paso Robles 2000
Price $14.99
Rating 91
Imagine aromas of vibrant red fruit, anise and dust, then there are flavors of raspberry and chocolate, laced with a grip of mineral and velvety tannin. This wine is very impressive for the price.
Talomas Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah, California2000
Price $14.99
Rating 92
First there are aromas of vibrant red cherry, sassafras, big and expansive, then flavors of earthy tar and earth, black fruit, with hints of tobacco and black pepper. This is an important red wine, priced very affordably. This wine will improve with age. The blend hails from Santa Barbara, Mendocino, Paso Robles, Rutherford and Monterey.
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Darryl Beeson reports on food, wine and travel. Says writer Roy Blount, Jr., "Wine is tough, but I know Darryl can do it."
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