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Kosher Wines for Seder
by Darryl Beeson
" Passover, or Pesach as we call it, is a holiday that brings family and
friends together at the table,"says Adam Montefiore, International Marketing
Director for Carmel, Israel's oldest winery. "Wine is an integral part of
the celebration. Four glasses are drunk throughout the meal and of course, it
must be Kosher." The good news is that wines within this category are
improving exponentially in quality.
Passover (April 16th, 2003), known as the Jewish
"Festival of Liberation",
"The Spring Festival" and "The Festival of Matzah" begins at sundown on
Wednesday, April 16, 2003 and lasts for eight days and eight nights. Passover
has both historical and agricultural significance within the Jewish community,
but the primary observance of Passover is related to the Exodus from Egypt in
1312 BC. This year, millions of Jewish families, often joined by non-Jewish
friends, will sit down together at a special meal known as a Seder. The Passover
Seder is rich with historical meaning and takes place on the first two nights of
the holiday. A tray of symbolic foods, also known as the Seder plate, is
traditionally found at the head of the table. This Seder plate prominently
displays the various symbolic foods that will be discussed throughout the meal,
each one having a specific meaning relevant to the holiday.
As with other Jewish holidays, wine is an integral part of the Passover Seder
and is considered a symbol of joy and happiness. Throughout the meal a blessing
is made and a cup consumed. This happens four times to signify the four
expressions of freedom. Don't be surprised when you are asked to spill a small
amount of wine or dip your finger into the glass ten times during the reciting
of the Ten Plagues, a common practice during this meal. A symbolic fifth cup of
wine is poured and a door opened for the Biblical Prophet Elijah to come and
drink.
Carmel is Israel's most established winery, overseen by Baron Edmond de
Rothschild, producing Kosher wine for over 120 years. "Many people think that
all Kosher wines are sweet and syrupy. There is nothing in Kosher wine law that
mandates the style of wine," says Montefiore. "Kosher wines can be dry table
wines, off-dry, dessert or sparkling. Carmel produces a complete range of wines,
including the sweet variety (Kiddush wines) that are still
traditional for certain ceremonies.
An old Yiddish proverb says "Over the bottle many a friend is found" a
saying that is sure to prove true this year at the Seder table. Twenty years
ago, Rothschild learned a lesson about winemaking from Languedoc-born winemaker,
Pierre Miodownick. Pierre showed him that he could produce kosher versions of
his best Bordeaux wines without compromising quality. Today, other renowned
wines in Bordeaux, such as Chateau Giscors, Chateau Leoville Poyferre, and most
recently, Chateau Pontet Canet are following the Baron's lead and also produce
kosher versions of their famous wines in collaboration with
Miodownick. Many contend that the only difference between the kosher and non-kosher versions of
these wines is that the kosher versions were produced by Sabbath-observant Jews.
In some instances, the kosher wine has been so good, the chateau has bought it
back to bottle using their standard, non-kosher label.
Kosher Wine Reviews:
Abarbanel Cremant D'Alsace, France N.V.
Price $16
Rating 86
This Cremant is made from the Pinot Blanc grape which is best known for
delicateness, suppleness and balance. It is fermented in the bottle. Serve
slightly chilled, preferably in a tall, fluted glass. Kosher for Passover. O-U
certified. Mevushal. This bubbly is perfect for a wedding or Bar/Bat Mitzvah.
Abarbanel Gewürztraminer, Alsace Mevushal 2000
Price $18
Rating 87
The only genuine Alsacian kosher and mevushal Gewurztraminer comes from
Abarbanel. There are instantaneous assaults of sugar and spice, oak and herbs.
Some believe that Gewurztraminers are perhaps one of the only white wines that
can stand up to steak.
Abarbanel Riesling, Alsace 1999
Price $18
Rating 89
"A lovely example showing typical characteristics of Alsatian versions of these
varietals. It is dry, showing some mineral, and is more subtle than their
Gewztraminer," in the opinion of Jewish wine critic Glenn Verk.
Abarbanel "Roberto Cohen" Sancerre Rouge, Loire 2001
Price $34
Rating 86
"Light and bright," suggests Jewish wine critic Glenn Verk, "it is flowery, yet
with some grip. Fun, but not worth the price." Red wines from the Loire are
often served slightly chilled. Match this wine with lighter, delicate cuisine.
Beckett's Flat Shiraz, Margaret River 2001
Price $24
Rating 89
This red displays sweet ripe berry fruit and peppery spices. Only 600 cases
made. This wine is ideal for steak and has everything you'd want in a high-end
Aussie red -- durability, character, zest. Kosher for Passover and
Mevushal. For more information, visit www.kosher-wine.com.
Beckett's Flat Sauvignon/Semillon, Margaret River 2001
Price $20
Rating 88
Pronounced tropical fruit sweetness and herbaceous notes combined with a
balanced acidity for a touch of tartness. Perfect with fish of any kind. Kosher
for Passover and Mevushal. Only 600 cases made. For more information, visist
www.kosher-wine.com.
Carmel Emerald Riesling and Chenin Blanc, Israel 2002
Price $9.99
Rating 89
Aromas of fresh, tart apple followed by flavors of fresh, drish apple. Clean
mineral and complex components through the good length. This wine stole the show
during a blind tasting. It is neither too dry, nor too sweet. This may be the
perfect wine for a family gathering. For more information, go
to.www.carmelwines.com.
Carmel Sauvignon Blanc, Israel 2001
Price $11
Rating 88
This wine is produced by the cold fermentation method so that the natural fruity
characteristics of the varietal are retained in the wine. Pale gold in color,
this is a relatively dry, full bodied wine. It is fruity with good acidity and a
pleasant hint of residual sugar in the finish.
Carmel "Private Collection" Chardonnay, Israel 1999
Price $26
Rating 87
Subtle apple and white fruit flavors with hints of fig and a bit of spice.
Carmel "Private Colection" Merlot, Israel
Price $26
Rating 92
Rich plum and mulberry on the nose, followed by flavors of blackberry and dark
earth. There is a long, complex length.
Dalton Estate Canaan White, Israel 2002
Price $18
Rating 89
Observes Jewish wine critic (and humorist) Glenn Verk, "This blend is like a
kosher "Conundrum" (a highly sought after medium-dry white wine from
California). So, let's call it "Conniption". Either way, this is a
crowd-pleaser. A Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling combination, medium
pushing full body, it possesses an interesting melding of flavors with a hint of
floral sweetness."
Dalton Merlot Reserve, Israel 2000
Price $25
Rating 89
"Intense and lively, with generous plum, wild berry and light hints of oak and
vanilla, this rich and complex wine borders comfortably on elegance. The wine is
aged in small oak casks for a year, and has nice lingering aftertastes. The wine
is drinking well now but should cellar comfortably until at least 2004." says
Daniel Rogov, Haaretz (July 2002).
Dalton Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Israel 1999
Price $25
Rating 89
"After two years in oak this deep royal purple medium to full-bodied wine is
still young and tight but already opens to reveal ripe wild berry, black cherry,
currant fruits and generous hints of mint and vanilla in its flavors and aromas.
Well focused, concentrated and balanced, the wine will drink nicely now if you
give it 15-20 minutes to open in the glass but will be at its best from
2003-2006."as reviewed by Daniel Rogov, Haaretz (July 2002).
Layla Malbec, Chile 2000
Price $14.99
Rating 89
"Dark and supple with some leather and black cherry. Good, and a good value,"
says Jewish wine critic Glenn Verk. Malbec made its way to South America from
the Bordeaux region of France during the last quarter of the 19th century. The
grapes for this wine come from mature vines and hail from Chile's oldest family
estate and winery. Malbec is one of the orginal noble varietals of Bordeaux and
has survived in its orginal form primarily in South America owing to various
blights which affected many French vineyards over the past century. Malbec will
remind some of Merlot in color and texture and also of Cabernet Sauvignon in its
ability to mature in the bottle and due to the higher levels of tannins.
Yarden Blanc De Blanc, Israel 1997
Price $17
Rating 89
This Mthode Champenoise bubbly was reviewed by Jewish wine critic Glenn
Verk, observing "a light straw color, pleasant slightly yeasty nose, medium body, dry
with good acid balance and soft apple tones." This wine is Kosher for Passover;
but is not mevushal. Some suggest trying this wine with medium grilled fish in
hearty sauces, or grilled marinated chicken, fried chicken, chicken in light
sauce, or duck in a light sauce.
Yarden "Katzrin" Chardonnay, Israel 2000
Price $26
Rating 89
Observes Jewish wine critic Glenn Verk, "This white has pretty oak and a sweet
apple-blossom nose, and there is a bit of soft tartness with a hint of citrus."
This wine is Kosher for Passover; but is not mevushal. Barrel fermentation and
aging, along with partial malolactic fermentation, yields a complex wine balaned
both with butter and oak
Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon, Israel 1999
Price $26
Rating 90
Observes Jewish wine critic Glenn Verk, "This wine receives 18 months of aging
in French oak, and though unfiltered and a bit cloudy, the earthy nose is
elegant and complex, though maybe not bone dry." This wine is Kosher for
Passover; but is not mevushal. This wine will complement complex,
intensely-flavored foods, such as leg of lamb stuffed with mixed wild
mushrooms, roasted sirloin with a red-wine-reduction sauce or truffled pasta.
For more great wine suggestions, click
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Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions? Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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