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More port styled wines from
Penfolds and Seppelt
By Darryl Beeson, Cellar Master

Previously, I proposed Australian port
styled wines as a value priced way to find warmth, perhaps saving on
outrageous home heating bills. Two other sources would be
Penfolds and Seppelt.
Penfolds, one of the first names that
comes to mind when you think about world-class Australian wine, was
founded by a young English doctor who migrated to one of his
country's most distant colonies a century and a half ago. He studied
medicine at St Bartholomew's Hospital, London, where he almost
certainly met Dr. Henry John Lindeman, who was his exact
contemporary and trained in the same hospital at about the same
time.
Like many doctors before and since, Dr.
Penfold had a firm belief in the medicinal value of wine. Dr.
Penfold built up his medical practice and made fortified wines -
port and sherry - for his patients. As the demand for his wine grew
he expanded the vineyards and increased production. At some stage in
the 1850's, wine took over from medicine as the family's chief
source of income.
Penfolds Club Port is the largest
selling Australian fortified wine. Made from a blend of tawny port
vintages, the wine was matured in oak hogsheads in Kalimna Vineyard
facilities in the Barossa Valley. Club Port's consistent quality and
easy-drinking style has secured its place as an institution among
Australian wine-lovers. The $12 price didn't hurt.
"Club Port is rich mahogany in
color," says wine maker Ian McKenzie, "the lifted bouquet
displays integration of old oak, rich developed fruit and a hint of
brandy spirit. The palate is rich and well-developed, with
full-bodied lingering flavors the result of balanced mature, spicy
fruit, oak, and brandy spirit."
The Seppelt family settled in the
Barossa Valley in 1851, and purchased the property now known as
Seppeltsfield. Then, in 1878 when their magnificent Seppeltsfield
port store was completed, Benno Seppelt selected a puncheon (a
500-litre barrel) of his finest port wine from that vintage and laid
it in the new storage maturation cellar, starting a tradition that
has continued annually. As a result Seppelt is the only known
company in the world to have significant stocks of consecutive tawny
ports in barrels dating back over 100 years.
No other winemaker in Australia can
boast such a collection of fine old fortified wine stocks dating
back to last century. At present, Seppeltsfield has more than 9
million liters of fortified wine maturing in specially built
cellars, some dating back to 1878. The facility looks almost
like a Hollywood movie set complex from the 1920's, a series of
large buildings connected by rows of palm trees.
The Seppelt Trafford Barossa Valley
Tawny Port is made from Grenache, Shiraz and Mataro grapes from
vineyards located in the Barossa Valley, South Australia. The price
is a mere $12.
Established in 1851, the Seppeltsfield
Winery has a long and proud history as one of Australia's leading
wine companies. At Seppeltsfield, the strength of Seppelt winemaking
expertise, viticultural knowledge and technical experience has led
to a great fortified wine tradition. The Cellars have 18,000 small
oak casks of fortified wines, including some of the oldest and best
in Australia.
"This classic wine is tawny in
color tending to olive green at the edges," says McKenzie,
"the bouquet shows elegant fruit and attractive rancio
character. On the palate, the wine is rich and complex in flavor
with a lingering brandy finish. A wine of great style, the complex
flavor characteristics of Seppelt Trafford are enhanced by the
component of older wine in the blend."
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Darryl Beeson, presently cellar master of Voltaire restaurant in
Dallas,
travels the world looking for great wine values. He has been
recognized in
recent months by The New York Times, The Washington Post, Smart
Money
Magazine, and InStyle Magazine for his insights on wine.
For more
great wine suggestions, click here
Darryl Beeson, presently cellar master of Voltaire restaurant in
Dallas,
travels the world looking for great wine values. He has been
recognized in
recent months by The New York Times, The Washington Post, Smart
Money
Magazine, and InStyle Magazine for his insights on wine.
Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions? Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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