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Z Café
By Jim White

Can it be nearly 10 years since we lost Little Gus on Lower Greenville? It seems like yesterday.

Lovers of the restaurant’s famous potato balls, dolmades (stuffed grape leaves) and burgers still grieve.

The little dive we loved was the stuff of legends: greasy spoon by day (breakfast and burgers), exalted Greek restaurant by night.

Take comfort, brethren. A descendent is now among us. Z Café has arrived! Its owner, Nicholas Zotos, is related to the Little Gus family. He worked at the restaurant from the time he was 10 until it closed in 1991. And, he’s got the keys to the family recipes!

That means those wonderful warm, crispy potato balls we adored are back. They’re served with the souvlaki-grilled lamb shish kabob ($7.95), or you can get them as a side ($2.50). Please, do.

And, those unimaginably succulent dolmas stuffed with ground beef and rice are waiting for you, too. Served with a tangy Greek salad and warm pita bread ($6.95), this makes for a Z-lightful lunch.

Z Café opened in September and serves 7 a.m. till 3 p.m. Plans include dinner service soon.

The place is laid back and small, but not cramped. The affable Mr. Zotos takes the self-service orders.

Breakfast is served all day. Eggs, pancakes, breakfast tacos, and BLT are the staples. Greek and Mexican Omelettes ($5.50) and Migas are the highlights. The mixture of crispy tortillas and eggs is served with hash browns and tomatillo sauce ($5.50).

For lunch, I had Z-best gyro sandwich ever ($3.95). It’s fresh, with exceptional flavor.

My new favorite hamburger is the “Z” Burger ($4). Picture two beef patties with fresh jalapeńos, nestled on grilled onions and topped with Feta cheese on a sesame bun. Think fast. It’s gone!

A tasty pizza with various toppings is also offered. The crust is thin and crispy the way it should be. The Greek Pizza ($12) is lavished with gyro meat, feta cheese, kalamata olives and tomatoes. Fabulous.

Little Gus fans can stop mourning. Rejoice!

Z Café
1924 N. Henderson
(214) 821-0991


Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com

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