Tramontana By Jim White Hang out the “under new management sign” at Tramontana in Preston Center. The place has always shown promise, but until recently delivered very little dining excitement. Chef/owner James Neel-formerly Al Biernat’s-is now at the helm. He wanted to do more creative cuisine. In less than two months since his arrival the restaurant has evolved light years. The menu is far improved and new dining rooms have been created, including one just right for private parties of about 20. It’s still intimate, with 20 tables altogether. The French murals and charming bistro touches remain. The changes are more in spirit and food-which is a good thing. Delightful appetizers include potato crusted calamari with spicy diablo sauce ($6.95) and a tempura shrimp with arugula and red chili glaze ($8.95) that almost transports you to Hawaii with its caramelized pineapple salsa. Chef Neel’s award winning Caesar salad is here ($5.95/$7.95 with chicken). A host of other intriguing salads includes grilled wild mushrooms with Boursin croutons ($7.95) and grilled ribeye salad with ginger and soy vinaigrette ($9.95). Daily fresh soups are sumptuous. The grilled yellow bell pepper and cheese soup ($3.95) almost had us asking for seconds. Pastas were popular on the old menu. Not wanting to disappoint regular clientele, Chef Neel has wisely retained some. Entrees offer many tantalizing flavors. Like the goat cheese crusted chicken and garlic potatoes ($10.95) with a sensual tart cherry sauce. Or, the enticing caramelized salmon with lemon grass beurre blanc ($10.95) and the pancetta wrapped beef tenderloin with juniper berries and port wine ($13.95). There are more, plus daily specials. All the fish is flown in fresh. The menu also includes several tempting sandwiches and wonderful house made desserts lovingly crafted by Mr. Neel each morning. You have to try the warm chocolate cake with the chocolate center and amaretto cream ($5.95). Divine! It can be a tad noisy at the height of the lunch rush, but nearly everyone around us was conducting some sort of business and never missed a beat. We’re lucky the chef has found his creative outlet. Tramontana 8220-B Westchester (214) 368-4188 Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com Copyright © 1998 Inter Active Media Solutions. All Rights Reserved. The interactive components of this site require that you use a current browser version of Explorer; be sure to maximize your window out so you can see the entire page. This page was created by Inter Active Media Solutions.