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Pappas Bros. Steakhouse
The steak war rages in Dallas. Wholl win is anybodys guess?
The real winners appear to be steak lovers, since at this rate, theyll soon be big bucks beef houses on every
corner in The Metroplex. How much steak can we eat? Operators are betting a lot. And, theyre fighting the good
fight to lure customers.
One of the latest combatants has quietly established its beachhead at Northwest Highway
and I-35---the new restaurant row, thanks to Houstons venerable Pappas Family. But the new steakhouse is a departure
from the casual dining philosophy of the sibling barbecue, Mexican and seafood restaurants.
The family takes a very upscale approach here and creates a supremely satisfying dining
experience. If youre looking for great food, great service and tasteful, comfortable surroundings, this is your
place. No expense has been spared to orchestrate their vision of fine dining.
The dining room has a 1940s supper club feel--rich, with dark paneling, and soft
lighting, acoustics that allow intimate conversation and great music from
Sinatra, Bennett and Cole. The wine cellar
dining room offers a glimpse of the 4 million-dollar Pappas Bros. wine collection. The cigar lounge, with its near
flawless air filtration system, appeals to power diners with its leather furnishings, stone fireplace and rustic
western touches. For the single party, not wishing to dine at a table alone, theres a very uptown dining counter.
Theres more: booths with local phones and Internet connection; a private jet to pick up or drop off that crucial
client; and a heli-pad for those who commute over rooftops.
Youll feel coddled by the kid-glove service and hospitality at Pappas
Bros.Steakhouse.
The wait-staff is knowledgeable, friendly and efficient. Theres a wine steward for every section of the restaurant
to guide you through the 1500 bottle list, which also features inspired choices by the glass, like Caymus Conundrum.
These are professionals and all the training pays off.
The entire experience comes together, of course, because the food is sublimely simple
and superb. Starters delight: crabcakes, fried oysters, bacon wrapped scallops or Beluga Caviar to name a few;
a perfect Caesar Salad; Turtle Gumbo or soup of the day.
The prime beef is aged in-house. The meat is on display as you enter and is a sight
to behold. Pick your favorite cut-filet, strip, ribeye, Porterhouse, lamb chops or veal. It will arrive cooked
to perfection from the high-temperature broiler. A regular special is the 22-ounce bone-in
Ribeye, tender and delicious
with outstanding skillet potatoes. If steaks not on your menu, Pappas Bros. offers broiled salmon, a sweet and
juicy Australian rock lobster tail and live Maine Lobster.
You must save room for dessert. All are made in house. The pastry chef was training
to be a doctor when his dessert calling came (the medical professions loss, the culinary worlds gain). I only
hope you have a large party so you can try several selections. We swooned over gooey pecan cake and Key Lime Pie.
The selection of single malt Scotches, after dinner spirits and ports is ample and
sure to please any palate.
The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday for dinner. Reservations are accepted
at 214-366-2000. Pappas Bros. is located at 10477 Lombardy Lane, just off Northwest Highway at Interstate 35.
On The KRLD Restaurant Show Review Scale of One to Five Forks, Pappas Bros. Rates 4 and a Half Forks. That breaks
down like this:
Food is 4 Forks.
Service is 4 and a half Forks
Atmosphere is 5 Forks.
Price is very expensive-entrees range from $13.95 to $68 for the lobster tail, and more for live lobster by the
pound; steaks range from $23.95 to $34.95.
Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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