Soho By Jim White Life is uncertain. Have dessert first-especially if a dessert item is the most memorable item on the menu. Such is the case at Soho in Addison. The Armanac poached pear with toasted walnuts and mascarpone cream ($4) is one of the most satisfying dining experiences I have ever had. The flavors and textures mix and mingle with a subtle fervor. It is sweet, yet not cloying. It is fresh and light-so wonderful as our torrid summer approaches. Don’t overlook the rest of the menu, but if you had just this delightful creation your experience would be sublime. Soho went through a chef change shortly after its transformation from Bolero over a year ago. The boat was rocked but, thankfully, has remained on a steady course with Amy Rank and Hamid Moallem at the helm. Chef Mario Gonzaga does indeed turn out other memorable dishes in addition to my favorite dessert. Calamari is enjoyable and is served with a spicy marinara and basil aioli ($5). But, again picking favorites, I suggest you order the chicken satays ($6). The wonderful grilled chicken strips on skewers are served with a series of intoxicating Thai dipping sauces and crispy julienne vegetables. Caesar salad is good at Soho. Generous pieces of shaved Parmesan highlight the regular version ($4.50), or you can add grilled chicken ($7) or crisp calamari-a nice touch ($7.50). There is a fresh soup daily ($4) and a dependable fisherman’s chowder (both $4). In the sandwich department, the Mediterranean chicken is the best creation ($6). It’s served with grilled red onions, roasted peppers, fontina cheese and saffron aioli. A choice of pastas is also available. Most interesting is the penne pasta in a tomato basil sauce ($6.50), mingled with tomato, wild mushrooms, asparagus and Romano cheese. It’s a comfortable, contemporary setting and the service is business friendly. All the nice light choices I’ve mentioned make it easy to leave room for the star of our show, that divine poached pear. Enjoy, and à votre santé! Soho Food, Drinks and Jazz 5920 Beltline (972) 490-8686 Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com