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Savory
By Jim White
Coffee shop by
day—gourmet restaurant by night.
This split personality destination is one of the more
interesting restaurants we have. You’ll find it tucked in the
Lakewood Shopping Center in East Dallas.
During the day the
place is Legal Grounds. It
offers coffee, tea, scones, sandwiches and more for breakfast and
lunch. When the lights
go down, Savory appears with a full range of creative and tasty new
American dishes, candlelight and a handy dandy wine list to
compliment the fare.
Savory has no
relationship to Legal Grounds other than leasing the space.
The Savory proprietors Jonathan Calabrese and Joseph Hickey
also share the cheffing, the hosting and, I suspect in a restaurant
this size, a number of other duties.
Savory is hardly
bigger than two postage stamps on the corner of an envelope.
Eight to ten tables, some old overstuffed easy chairs—all
the jurisprudence décor of law books and journals that give Legal
Grounds that funky, edgy, coffee-shop-as-attorney’s-office motif.
Savory has oomph
and service and style. It’s
been one of our most enjoyable meals of late.
We started with a
two-tone vichyssoise, hand spun in the bowl to appear like the yin
and the yang symbols. This delicious two potato and leek soup was rich and creamy.
House made paté,
full of texture and flavor, is another starter at Savory, along with
various cheese boards and salads, including a warm pancetta wrapped
radicchio wedge with Balsamic reduction, one time, and Panzanella,
Italian Bread Salad, another.
The Savory menu
changes every couple of weeks.
Entrées, or
“fillers” as they’re called, feature comfort food dressed up
as fine dining experiences. Everything
we tried was rich, flavorful and well balanced.
I challenge you to leave morsels untouched on the plate!
Roasted Cornish
game hen with wild rice, Edamame and Shitake Miso was succulent and
bursting with flavor. It
was a perfect, but unexpected, match for the Cambria Pinot Noir we
selected. We really had
chosen that tasty California
Central Coast varietal for the Barbecued Atlantic Salmon served over
the most delicious concoction of homemade baked beans and Asiago
coleslaw with Espresso BBQ sauce.
Umm!
On any given
evening you’ll find lamb, seabass, beef tenderloin, pork, and
always a vegetarian specialty included, too, like eggplant marsala
or tomato and mushroom ragout.
Desserts are
housemade, too. Tart Tatin with
rosemary ice cream was perfect for sharing as our Savory finale.
Savory is located
in the Lakewood Shopping Center at 2015 Abrams Parkway, near Gaston
and Abrams. Good news!
Savory has started serving nightly.
Still, I highly recommend reservations at 214-887-1919.
Sit back with some
blues or jazz, depending on the musical selection, savor a Port and
some cheese, and enjoy an evening of good food and friendly service
at Savory in East Dallas.
On the
KRLD Restaurant Show Review Scale of One to Five Forks,
Savory rates 4 Forks.
Food is
4 Forks.
Service
is 3 and a Half Forks.
Atmosphere
is 3 and a Half Forks.
The
price is moderately expensive, with entrées ranging from 12 to 19
dollars.
See all of our KRLD Restaurant Show Reviews online at
EatsandDrinks.com.
Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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