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Rosebud

By Jim White

After years of fighting the construction woes around the West Village, the legendary little restaurant that could---found that it couldn’t, continue that is.

After more than two decades Jennivine, one of Dallas’ original wine bistros, closed its doors. That story was updated, thankfully, to a happier ending this month when Jennivine owners Carol and Lewis McHenry opened Rosebud.

To quote from their email, "Jennivine Wine Bistro is now Rosebud. We have moved to the State-Thomas Historic District, Boll at Guillot, just one block north of Woodall Rodgers." I tell you this because it’s not easy to find the new restaurant unless you’re familiar with the neighborhood or happen to have a GPS system in your car, as friends did the first evening we met for dinner at Rosebud. I had to use my Mapsco.

It’s worth finding the gem of a restaurant. It features all the great little touches that made Jennivine beloved to many, without the lousy parking, and creaky floors of the drafty old house turned restaurant. Cheese and pate samplers are still a very civilized way to have a light lunch, a romantic munchie with a good bottle of Chateauneauf du Pape, or just a fun appetizer. The Rosebud wine list, like Jennivine still has the leather bound pages with wine labels mounted for your review instead of an endless list of varietals. It’s a fun way to explore the wine list. It’s a very functional list, too, that goes nicely with the simple but satisfying bistro menu at Rosebud. If you were a Jennivine fan, you’ll find old favorites at Rosebud.

The warm garden salad with Stilton cheese heated in raspberry vinaigrette is a standout. Another good starter is escargot in puff pasty with mushroom, Stilton cream sauce.

Rack of lamb with smoked garlic and Sauvignon Blanc sauce and roasted duckling with a Port wine, orange sauce are main course mainstays. Poached Atlantic salmon in a delicate mushroom, leek Champagne sauce is cooked to perfection. For something a little spicier, blackened swordfish and shrimp with poblano, lobster sauce is a standout. For heartier dishes try beef tenderloin with grilled Portobello mushroom in a roasted shallot, Cabernet Sauvignon sauce or roasted pork loin with a green peppercorn, brandy sauce.

Desserts include a wonderful cheesecake, dark chocolate mousse, and an irresistible crème brulée.

We were pleased with our food, with the service and with the setting.

Rosebud is built in an old Masonic Lodge. One of the few original buildings saved in the historic area. Dark accents, beautiful hardwood floors, big windows, and cool Jazz create a smooth, casual urban setting. Rosebud is a place for friends, romance or business without any stuffiness.

Rosebud is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday and serves brunch on Sunday. Afternoon tea is a great touch, Tuesday through Saturday 2:30-5. Rosebud continues the wonderful bridal shower tradition started at Jennivine, and yes, bonnets are still provided for all the ladies in attendance.

Rosebud is located at 2701 Guillot Street at Boll, in the State-Thomas area. Phone 214-468-0919 for reservations or directions. See your Dallas Mapsco 45C.

On the KRLD Restaurant Show Review Scale of One to Five Forks, Rosebud rates 4 Forks.

Food is 4 Forks.

Service is 4 Forks.

Atmosphere is 4 Forks.

Price is moderately expensive, with dinner entrées ranging from $14.50 to $23.


Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com