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Perry’s Restaurant
By Jim White
Sophisticated supper club is the
atmosphere you’ll find at the new Perry’s in Uptown Dallas.
Restaurant fans will be pleased by
the upgrade to the former Ruggieri’s space across from the
Quadrangle. Perry’s is all different—from the entrance to the
dining room. Perry’s features lots of paneling and cushy leather
booths—so big you could comfortably take a nap between courses.
Don’t worry though, the service doesn’t lag so you won’t have
time.
Perry’s is another high-end steak
house with obligatory lobster tails, a fresh catch of the day and a
chicken dish for the contrarian in the group.
Proprietors Travis Henderson and Amy
Bergus have put together a menu and a scene that seems to appeal to
well-heeled Gen X’ers, Boomers and their folks! I think
they’re on to something if Perry’s can please three generations
of diners.
Jumbo crab cakes—nice and golden
brown crunchy on the outside—spicy garlic barbecue shrimp and
crispy onion rings are appetizer highlights.
A range of salads for all palates
includes three standouts: Bleu cheese iceberg, Perry’s Magnum
salad with toasted pecans, hearts of palm and delicious Champagne
vinaigrette, and a finely crafted Caesar with house-made croutons
and generous chards of Parmesan.
Of course, the star of the show at
Perry’s is beef. Depending on your appetite and preference you’ll
find what you’re looking for here, from an 8 ounce petite prime
filet to a plate topping 22 ounce Porterhouse. There’s even a tip
of the hat to the chicken fried steak with Perry’s version of the
Southern Fried Ribeye. All come cooked, as ordered, so if you want
Medium rare it’ll be the right temperature, and if you ask for
medium it won’t be well done.
Everything is ala carte at Perry’s.
Along with your entrée you can choose from creamed spinach, steamed
broccoli, steamed asparagus, and more; along with just about every
kind of potato you might want—fried, mashed, baked and au gratin.
Service is smooth and accommodating.
The owners did know we were there so that might have kicked up the
attention a notch, but we didn’t see other diners being ignored.
In fact, all around us seemed happy as could be with the
surroundings and their food.
The wine list is suitable for the
menu selections, with big names you’ll recognize, and big prices.
Wines by the glass are unimpressive, and my pet peeve
again---bargain stemware that’s not suitable for the fifty,
seventy-five and hundred dollars plus bottles of wine being poured
into it. Hear more on this in five minutes from crystal stemware
king George Riedel.
Perry’s is located at 2911 Routh
Street and is open for dinner only, Monday through Saturday,
beginning at 4:30—that’s either a late lunch for the Gen X’ers,
dinner time for the Golden Agers, or an escape from rush hour for
the Boomers. Call 214-871-9991 for reservations.
On the KRLD Restaurant Show Review Scale of One to Five Forks,
Perry’s Rates 3 and a Half Forks.
Food is 3 and a Half Forks
Service is 3 and a Half Forks
Atmosphere is 4 Forks
Price is expensive, with entrées ranging from $16 to $31 and
"market" prices on lobster and fresh seafood.
Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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