|
Nana
By Jim White
Heaven on the 27th floor
is the best way I can describe the new Nana in the Wyndham Anatole
Hotel. I say this because I will run out of adjectives to describe
the new Nana and the sublime gastronomical excursion you will take
here.
"Grill"
is no longer a part of the restaurant’s name after it closed for a
multi-million dollar makeover this fall. It is a stunning room with
a stunning view.
Nana re-opened in early November and
is now, arguably, Dallas’ finest dining experience. After
remodeling, it certainly is the most elegant and sophisticated
dining room in the area. Now, at last, the setting matches the
talents of the star power brain trust responsible for the wine,
service and culinary programs at Nana: General Manager Paul Pinnell
and Chef David McMillan.
Dining room legend Pinnell
spearheaded the Nana evolution. He was involved with every detail
from start to finish in the re-design of the restaurant, bar and
private dining rooms—from draperies to carpets to menus. He even
selected the beautiful china and crystal stemware.
For unforgettable dining, experience
Nana’s private room for 12. The Presidential Room features Versace’s
glorious blue, "Winter Dreams" place settings, one of
several custom chandeliers featured in the new restaurant, and
exceptional works of art—as is the case throughout the new Nana—from
Trammel Crow’s private collection. Or, treat your special friends,
family or important clients to an evening at the Chef’s table
nestled in its own private mezzanine inside the main dining room and
featuring Versace’s red and black appointments.
I’ve got to tell you, though, I
wouldn’t mind being served on Ranch ware or even paper plates, if
I’m getting David McMillan’s inspired cuisine. His selection of
ingredients and combination of flavors create an unforgettable meal.
The tasting menu changes nightly.
This dramatic seven course journey reflects the passion, skill and
confidence of an accomplished chef at the top of his game. My taste
buds experienced pure joy each step of the carefully crafted way.
Incredible dishes like lamb and beluga lentil soup with roasted
parsnip puree; truffled potato and foie gras Napoleon with
chanterelle mushrooms and squab sauce; and black trumpet dusted Axis
venison with baby Brussel sprouts and a chestnut flan were
highlights. I highly recommend this route. Put yourself in Chef
McMillan’s hands and by all means, allow peerless wine master
Pinnel to choose the accompanying wines.
For our meal, he selected a
wonderful white from Rhone’s Beaucastle, an exquisite Ramy
Chardonnay from Napa, an old vine Zinfandel from Fife, a rare split
of Araujo Syrah, and an exceptional late harvest Viognier from R.H.
Phillips. Paul is like a kid in a candy story with his beautiful new
1500 bottle red wine cellar on display at the entrance to Nana. Now,
"at last", he says, the reds are kept at the perfect
serving temperature.
Other incredible menu highlights
include chestnut flour fried lobster, glazed squab with smokey game
and port broth, and whole roasted foie gras (recommended for 6 to
8).
Step away from the ordinary with an
endive salad featuring warm celery root ravioli, toasted walnut,
Fourme D’ambert, apple and hard cider emulsion.
Dazzling entrée selections include
the freshest seafood imaginable (for a landlocked restaurant), duck,
rabbit, Colorado rack of lamb and a tender as butter grilled prime
filet. We savored a beautifully crafted dish of veal tournedos with
foie gras, mascarpone potato puree and sauce Perigueux.
Divine dessert selections are the
perfect compliment for the Nana experience. The Scharffen Berger
Chocolate Tart with vanilla bean cream and candied hazelnuts and the
pumpkin brulée with spiced Madeleine are among the standouts.
From the carefully spotted lighting,
the placement of the tables, and the fabulous addition of cozy new
booths facing the dramatic floor to ceiling windows, nothing is left
to chance in this wondrous new Nana. Even the service, which was
always kid-glove attentive, seems to have improved.
Nana is open for dinner nightly in
the Wyndham Anatole Tower and reservations are strongly recommended;
call 214-748-1200. Free valet parking is offered.
On the KRLD Restaurant Show Review Scale of One to Five Forks,
Nana rates 5 Forks.
Food is 5 Forks.
Service is 4 and a Half Forks
Atmosphere is 5 Forks.
Price is expensive. Entrees ranges from $32 to $43 and the Chef’s
Tasting is $80 per person and $125 with accompanying wines.
Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com
|
