Restaurant Jean-Georges By Jim White As you step inside, you get an inkling that an amazing dining experience is about to unfold. By the time you’ve completed your gastronomic excursion at Jean-Georges you’ll judge restaurants by a whole new standard. As the introduction to his new book so aptly describes him, Jean-Georges Vongerichten is “a master of making simple preparations taste incredibly complex.” He was already a culinary trend-setter because of his Manhattan restaurants Jo Jo and Vong, a second Vong in London, and yet a third in Hong Kong (called “best in the world” by The Robb Report). With his latest restaurant--in Trump International Hotel and Tower-it’s worth making a trip to New York solely for lunch or dinner (as we did recently). The setting is sleek, soft and contemporary. The floor to ceiling windows are the portals to a magical panorama of Central Park and Gotham's skyline providing the dramatic backdrop for your meal. There is a seamless flow from start to finish. With courses evolving like movements in a symphony. The maestro’s degustation will elevate you to a new sensory level. The seven-course menu is offered for both lunch and dinner. A prix fixe selection is also available. Tender peeled asparagus are presented-then an unexpected treat-steaming morels in cream sauce are spooned over them, help release warm, nutty flavors. Next a signature dish arrives, sea scallops in a caper-raisin emulsion topped with cauliflower. Then, a beautiful bowl of purple chive blossoms is placed in front of you. Young garlic soup with thyme is ladled over them creating intoxicating aromas. It is suggested you dip the accompanying sautéed frog legs in the soup. A wonderful idea! And, fingers are perfectly acceptable. But, have no fear, the lemon finger bowl and warm cloth arrive momentarily. As the performance builds, turbot in a Chateau Chalon sauce arrives with its tomato confit and zucchini. The next course brings, a lobster tartine with pumpkinseed, fenugreek broth and pea shoots. We crescendo with broiled squab in an onion compote and foie gras on a corn pancake. The Jean-Georges finale produces a mini spectacle the entire dining room enjoys. A fresh Costa Rican pineapple is cleaned and dressed with a flourish. Only the sweetest slice is served, topped with kirsch and candied mint. The final note is a serving of miniature chocolate soufflés, pistachio ice cream, assorted sweets and a late harvest Austrian Riesling. The service is suave and flawless. The wine list is filled with interesting, unusual and affordable selections, including wonderful wines from Alsace. A number of great wines by the glass are also offered. This restaurant is a virtuoso performance, thanks to Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten and his staff. It is the singularly most enjoyable dining experience I have ever had. On The KRLD Restaurant Show Review Scale of One to Five Forks, Jean-Georges is a Five Fork Restaurant---across the board. Food is 5 Forks. Service is 5 Forks. Atmosphere is 5 Forks. (and 4 Seasons are thrown in free) Price is expensive. The degustation menu is $115 per person at lunch, $145 at dinner (a value). Restaurant Jean-Georges is open for lunch and dinner---reservations are a must. 212-299-3900. 1 Central Park West. Take a look at Jean-Georges: Cooking At Home With a Four-Star Chef. ` ` `