Hofstetter’s Spargel Café Something old. Something new. Something borrowed. Something…green-asparagus, will do. Now, hold those thoughts while I tell you about Spargel. The something old are the time-honored German and Austrian recipes from Hofstetter’s that have been pleasing Dallasites for over a decade. The something new is the location for Hofstetter’s, along with a new name and an updated style. This blending of modern, Euro-Continental Cuisine with the old-fashioned meat and potatoes, or spaetzel in this case, has produced a wonderful new restaurant in University Park, Spargel…on Lovers Lane. And, Spargel would be the something green. Spargel is the German word for asparagus. And asparagus is the first thing you’ll notice when you enter Spargel. The giant asparagus sculpture in the entryway makes quite a statement. Next, you’ll notice the comfortable, clean, minimalist approach to the décor at Spargel. The other interesting design feature is the collection of weinhabers hanging on the wall. What’s a weinhaber? Well, I’m glad you asked. The weinhabers are from Austria and they are a device used to taste wine still in the barrel. These happen to be filled with red, white and rose, but I recommend sticking to Spargel’s wine list and the regular stemware. The wine list is shorter than Hofstetter’s but features a few more premium selections to go with your Euro-Continental selections. Wiener Schnitzel remains, as do the other Schnitzels that were Hofstetter’s claim to fame. But it’s what been added to this menu that is significant. For appetizers, The crawfish pancake is a marvelous introduction to what’s new at Spargel. A delicious potato pancake topped with sautéed crawfish tails in creole seasoned cream sauce. Crab cakes are a hit and try the Goat cheese in Strudel pouch. Also, why not go for the namesake and try the sautéed asparagus? The salad selection is part of the renaissance, too, the Café Salad with grilled asparagus is delightful. Entrees shine at Spargel. Coq au vin is a classic. The chicken, braised in a Burgundy sauce, is tender and well seasoned with pearl onions, mushrooms and bacon. The herbed mashed potatoes are divine. Sea bass with sun-dried tomatoes and capers is good. The fish is flaky and succulent. If this is your dish, I would recommend dining early. They often run out it’s so popular. For a Euro-Continental sampler with some oom-pah, go for the Charcutiere plate. It’s smoked pork chop, bratwurst, a pork medallion and chicken heaped over sauerkraut, with mashed potatoes. The schnitzel is what always brought me back to Hofstetter’s. It didn’t live up to my expectation in the new location. It was still tender and tasty, but the breading was somewhat greasy and it detracted from the enjoyment of the dish. Desserts are a perfect ending for your European tour at Spargel’s. You must sample the Malakoff Torte, their signature, made with lady fingers soaked in coffee and rum flavoring, then layered between almond cream and sponge cake. Also, you’ll love the crepes filled with cream cheese, lemon and raisins. Service is attentive and efficient at Spargel’s. The new restaurant is located at 4326 Lovers Lane, near Douglas. Call 214-368-3002. Spargel’s is now serving lunch, Monday through Friday, as well as Sunday Brunch, and dinner Monday through Saturday. On The KRLD Restaurant Show Review Scale of One to Five Forks, Spargel’s rates 3 and a half Forks. That breaks down, as 3 and a half Forks for Food, Service and Atmosphere. The Price is moderately expensive with dinner entrees ranging from $13.50 to $23.00 Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com Copyright © 1998 Inter Active Media Solutions. All Rights Reserved. The interactive components of this site require that you use a current browser version of Explorer; be sure to maximize your window out so you can see the entire page. This page was created by Inter Active Media Solutions.