Gershwin’s By Jim White What do you get when you cross a Dallas restaurant institution that had fallen on hard times with a master chef who just recently took ownership of the place he used to consult? When the chef is Gaspar Stantic, you get the revival of a once great restaurant operation at Gershwin’s on upper Greenville Avenue. In its heyday in the 80’s and early 90’s, Gershwin’s was a hotspot for the cool movers and shakers, see and be seen crowd. Martini deal lunches and happy hour hanky panky were the mainstay of this chic, clubby eatery. Food could have been a throwaway but it wasn’t. Through the years the cool crowd went elsewhere and the food, in many cases, should have been thrown away. Gershwin’s, the original, died a quiet, unheralded death a little over a year ago. Enter wise and extremely talented Gaspar, not sure if he was riding a white steed. About 6 months ago he bought Gershwin’s, did some of the requisite fix up, plumbing and air conditioning repairs, and stationed himself in the kitchen serving his popular style of New American Cuisine with the timeless Continental flair. If you ever visited Gaspar’s in Coppell (hugely successful in the early to mid 90’s) you’ll be glad to know Gaspar has a Dallas outpost now. Signature items include The Beggar’s Purse, crabcakes, prime beef and of course, those classic sauces—ah, the sauces, hallmark of French and Continental cooking. Gaspar, a Swiss native, studied in Austria and France and received his master training and examination in Vienna. He has a list of international awards and gold medals longer than your arm. I’ve mentioned two appetizers not to be missed. The crabcake is all crab, not filler, with a dreamy Remoulade sauce. Beggar’s Purse is a seafood symphony of shrimp, scallops and cream cheese with creamy bisque. Or, sample a wood-fired oven pizza with prosciutto and goat cheese. Classic Caesar with garlic croutons lead the salad array. Pastas please with angel hair, lump crabmeat with a white wine and basil sauce, Linguini with clams pancetta or a spicy lobster risotto with mango sauce. Standouts from the pleasing list of entrées include mouthwatering pecan crusted rack of lamb with Port wine mushroom sauce and any of Gaspar’s beef dishes: grilled tenderloin with brandied peppercorn sauce, prime New York strip with herb butter, or tenderloin with Béarnaise and crabmeat. Macadamia crusted pan seared trout with lemon butter caper sauce is heavenly. Fresh seafood and other chef specials are offered nightly. A well organized and moderately priced wine list helps showcase the menu. Desserts include signature chocolate bag for two, bread pudding and, one that everyone at the table adored—even the ones who said "they don’t care for chocolate"—a dark chocolate pate with macadamia nuts and a sauce Ingles. If you’ve been to Gershwin’s before, the rich dark wood, etched glass, marble and hardwood floors still give it the speakeasy look. A pianist/vocalist nightly adds to the supper club feel. Our visits have provided an opportunity for quiet conversation and excellent dining. Although, we did kick it up a few notches during our last dinner as we caught up with old friends. It’s the kind of atmosphere that lends itself to both extremes, from romantic, to business to convivial—rather fitting since that party atmosphere was Gershwin’s original M.O. Service here is attentive and knowledgeable. Complimentary valet parking is offered. Gershwin’s is open for lunch and dinner at 8442 Walnut Hill Lane at Greenville Avenue in Dallas. Phone for reservations 214-373-7171. On the KRLD Restaurant Show Review Scale of One to Five Forks, Gershwin’s rates 4 Forks. Food is 4 Forks Service is 3 and half Forks Atmosphere is 3 and a half Forks Price is moderately expensive, lunchtime entrées range from $13.50 to $17.95, at dinner prices are $18.95 to $28.50. Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com