III Forks Millions of dollars and years in the making, III Forks arrives on the scene. And what a perfect location it would make for another reunion movie from J.R. and the “Dallas” clan. As far as ambiance is concerned--This monument to excess on the Tollway with the gold-plated dome does everything in its power to re-enforce every Big D stereotype known to man or beast. I felt like I was an extra in a “B” Western until we got to the table. Get a gander at men in big hats (and no cattle) playin’ cowboy fiddle with a former Miss Texas-“ain’t she some filly?” as J.R. might have said (and really quite talented). Bask in the world’s most unflattering lighting in the entryway-shining garishly yellow through Tiffany stained-glass windows in the ceiling. Rub elbows in the big ol’ bar, with the big ol’ globe, in the big ol’ waiting room, suggesting they expect lots of folks to wait a big ol’ time for a table. Admire the saddles and chaps; the lovely fake flowers; the sepia-toned family photos of all the ranch honchos dressed in their “Sunday Go to Meetin” best. If you’re well heeled and need to prove it, lasso yourself a $35,000 bottle of fancy French wine-it’s from 1926 and it’s for sale, but they ain’t gonna guarantee you it’s any good. Yee--haw!! Nowhar but Texas! For all its vices, it has its virtues, but only when it concentrates on food and service. And III Forks does both of those very well. Appetizers are expensive--$11.95 for a shrimp cocktail. She-Crab Soup is a good alternative. Salads are delightful. I thoroughly enjoyed the III Forks House Salad with great mixed greens, big chunks of blue cheese, Granny Smith apples and pecans all mixed in a tasty walnut vinaigrette. Steak is king here. Big prime choices abound-all midwestern corn-fed choices from Wisconsin and Iowa (no doubt driven to slaughter up the Chisholm Trail from Texas). My filet mignon was tasty, and lean, but a bit dry. The T-bones and Porterhouse cuts are awesome. You’ll find a good Rib eye and N.Y. Strip, too. All these items come with potatoes (fresh chives mixed in give them a good flavor) and a vegetable. You’ll also find seafood choices flown in fresh each day. The supply of redfish from the Gulf was already gone. They also feature grilled salmon from The Pacific Northwest (not tried because the server said it was fishy-hmmm?!?), king crab legs from Alaska; trout from Idaho and a nightly special-we chose the seabass-I ddin’t get its address, but it was quite delicious-served in a III Forks Sauce---browned butter, mushrooms, tomatoes and capers. All the desserts are made in house. The III Forks bread pudding with blueberries, raspberries and blackberries is a favorite. And, for the over the top, once a year indulgence-try the homemade ice cream with 20 per cent butterfat. The wine list is full of big, expensive reds-like the $35,000 Haut Brion 1926 or a $12,500 ’59 LaTour. Of course more accessible bottles are available. There are about a half-dozen bottles under $40 before jumping into the pricier ranges. All the Bordeaux’s are expensive. Pinot Noirs are a good buy. Chardonnays are well priced. Plus you’ll find some nice by the glass selections from Kenwood-Chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon for $5.95. III Forks is open every night for dinner and serves Sunday Brunch. Take the Trinity Mills Exit from the Tollway. The number for reservations is 972-267-1776. You’ll need ‘em, the place is packed every night. We waited 25 minutes, with a reservation. Everybody wants to see what Cowboy Bob Cooper, AKA Del Frisco, AKA Dale Wamstadt is up to now that he’s back in the saddle again. Up to the edge and over the top, I’d say. On the KRLD Restaurant Show Review Scale of One to Five Forks: III Forks rates Three Forks. That breaks down like this: Food is Three and a half Forks. Service is Three and a half Forks Atmosphere is Three Forks. Price is expensive, entrees range from $23 to $33 Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com Copyright © 1998 Inter Active Media Solutions. All Rights Reserved. The interactive components of this site require that you use a current browser version of Explorer; be sure to maximize your window out so you can see the entire page. This page was created by Inter Active Media Solutions.