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Dragonfly
By
Jim White
Dragonfly rocks.
The Stephan Pyles consulted restaurant in the hip, new Hotel
ZaZa is hot. The place
sizzles with scene makers and scene seekers sipping cool cocktails
of various hues. The contemporary crowd fills the bar early. By
nightfall, a dazzling cacophony fills the dining room and all of the
environs of this eclectic blend of Asian, Mediterranean and Moroccan
influences. Oh, come
with me to the casbah. We
could make such beautiful music together.
The setting is
sultry and sophisticated. Fabrics
drape the walls and light fixtures of the elevated dining room. Next
to the bar, a line of banquettes and high backed booths accommodate
diners and the late night overflow of imbibers.
Ceiling murals suggesting mystical symbolism from Southern
Asia are juxtaposed with the high definition plasma TV screening of
“Goldfinger”. Just
floors removed from the Hotel ZaZa’s “Shagadelic Suite”,
Dragonfly transcends time and space.
This is the place for passionate partiers and serious foodies.
Star chef Mr. Pyles has assembled a stellar cast of players
to provide for all their desires.
Maitre d’ George
Majdalani who worked with Chef Pyles at Star Canyon and recently
helmed operations for the M Crowd—including Mercury and Paris
Vendome—runs a tight ship. Hospitality
and service are first rate at Dragonfly.
Executive Chef
Jeff Moschetti—recently of Hotel Crescent Court—hails from San
Francisco and shines with the Asian influenced Mediterranean menu
designed by Stephan Pyles.
Great sushi and
fresh shellfish are among the tempting array of appetizers.
You, like us, may find it hard to decide. We asked if chef
would mind creating a sampler.
We were gladly obliged.
Now, we were recognized and welcomed warmly to the
restaurant, but I suspect this kind concession will be made for you
as well. They are keen
on pleasing their patronage at Dragonfly.
Three recommended starters were neatly prepared and plated
for our convenience. I’ve
got to rave about the best calamari dish I’ve tried.
At Dragonfly it’s served with Asian greens and a sweet and
sour chile sauce—spectacular and with a nice kick.
Pot stickers are served with lobster butter and watercress
pear salad. Each bite
tasting better than the last. The
third was a wonderful Tea-Smoked chicken salad with Asian pears,
sweet and candied cashews and arugula.
This could qualify as a signature dish at Dragonfly.
Main courses are
equally compelling. Two
dishes—one by land and one by sea—are offered for couples.
The whole roasted Mediterranean fish with artichokes and
caper brown butter, and the Prime Rib Steak with oven roasted
vegetables and the piled high onions rings Stephan made famous at
Star Canyon. We savored
every bite of the slow cooked salmon served with pancetta and
orange-scented lentils. I
had to try one of the Moroccan inspired Tagines—or stew—made
with tender chicken, garlic and black olives.
Lamb and shellfish versions are also offered.
The wine list is
approachable and offers great range.
Wisely, a number of Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blancs and
Rieslings are offered to match the spicy cuisine. The staff is very
well trained on the list and can offer knowledgeable
recommendations. I’d
like to see a few more wines by the glass offered.
Desserts shine at
Dragonfly. Start at the top of the list and work down.
None will disappoint. By the way, the chilled coconut
lemongrass soup with a warm pineapple dumpling is at the top of the
list, and halfway down is the warm baklava bread pudding with
intoxicating brown butter honey basted pears.
Ummm!
Dragonfly is open
for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
All the menus offer the same level of creative and delicious
dishes.
Dragonfly is a
great location for a power business breakfast or lunch, and as
previously stated, a stunning new entrant on the Dallas dining
scene.
On the
KRLD Restaurant Show Review Scale of One to Five Forks, Dragonfly
rates 4 and a Half Forks.
Food is
4 and a Half Forks
Service
is 4 and a Half Forks
Atmosphere
is 4 Forks
Price is
expensive. Dinner entrées
range from $18 to $28--$48 for the prime rib steak for two; lunch
options are $8 to $14—with some tasty comfort food and sandwiches
being offered—and breakfast prices are generally $9 to $15 with a
scrumptious omelet, Eggs Benedict, waffles, pancakes and a savory
smoked salmon cheese cake with bagel crisps among the eye-opening
choices.
Dragonfly is located at Hotel ZaZa in the Uptown Area
of Dallas. The address
is 2332 Leonard Street. Reservations
are strongly recommended. Phone
214-550-9500. Visit
their website for more at www.hotelzaza.com.
Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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