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Citizen
By Jim White
Rosebud. The opening line from Citizen Kane and the enigmatic last word spoken
by Orson Welles tragic protagonist in the classic film.
Chairman Mao. A mystery to be revealed at the conclusion of this chapter of Citizen-Dallas
style.
Citizen is not a character this time but the latest restaurant creation from the M
Crowd. Their productions also include The Mercury. The names are a tip of the hat to Welles and his troupe, The
Mercury Players.
Executive Chef Chris Ward, who is splitting his time between The Mercury and his daring
new Oak Lawn prodigy, directs the latest ensemble.
The set is visually stunning. The former Mainstream Fish House location is transformed
into a hip, sensual Euro bistro with provocative lighting and colors.
Playing against type, the New American cuisine creates an award winning performance,
with the Asian ingredients providing the dramatic motivation.
All of the lunch entrées do a star turn. Sushi, sashimi and rolled sushi are
virtuoso caliber. Portions are generous and wont cause you to go over budget.
Pan-fried dumplings with ginger soy sauce ($6), stir-fry chicken with chopped vegetables
and lettuce wraps ($11) and crisped salmon with green curry hot pot ($12) are box office smashes.
A cameo from the oriental enhanced Caesar salad with fried won ton ($8) and tempura
chicken ($6) brought down the house.
The plot takes a number of intriguing twists, including Thai style crisp dan-dan noodles
with chicken and shrimp ($11) and pork with vermicelli pie and lemon grass ($8).
From your first taste of sushi to your last bite of the luscious cinnamon chocolate
Falling Down cake with Tahitian vanilla sauce ($7) there are no out takes at Citizen.
The wait staff plays a fine supporting role; always appearing on cue.
And as for Chairman Mao? His picture was displayed in a small private dining room
when the restaurant first opened. After receiving bad reviews from restaurant patrons, the visage is now hidden
behind a mirror and cloaked in obscurity, much like Rosebud.
Citizen
3858 Oak Lawn in Turtle Creek Village
(214) 522-7253
Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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