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Citizen
By Jim White

“Rosebud.” The opening line from “Citizen Kane” and the enigmatic last word spoken by Orson Welles’ tragic protagonist in the classic film.

“Chairman Mao.” A mystery to be revealed at the conclusion of this chapter of “Citizen-Dallas style”.

Citizen is not a character this time but the latest restaurant creation from the “M Crowd”. Their productions also include The Mercury. The names are a tip of the hat to Welles and his troupe, “The Mercury Players”.

Executive Chef Chris Ward, who is splitting his time between The Mercury and his daring new Oak Lawn prodigy, directs the latest ensemble.

The set is visually stunning. The former Mainstream Fish House location is transformed into a hip, sensual Euro bistro with provocative lighting and colors.

Playing against type, the New American cuisine creates an award winning performance, with the Asian ingredients providing the dramatic motivation.

All of the lunch entrées do a star turn. Sushi, sashimi and rolled sushi are virtuoso caliber. Portions are generous and won’t cause you to go over budget.

Pan-fried dumplings with ginger soy sauce ($6), stir-fry chicken with chopped vegetables and lettuce wraps ($11) and crisped salmon with green curry hot pot ($12) are box office smashes.

A cameo from the oriental enhanced Caesar salad with fried won ton ($8) and tempura chicken ($6) brought down the house.

The plot takes a number of intriguing twists, including Thai style crisp dan-dan noodles with chicken and shrimp ($11) and pork with vermicelli pie and lemon grass ($8).

From your first taste of sushi to your last bite of the luscious cinnamon chocolate “Falling Down” cake with Tahitian vanilla sauce ($7) there are no out takes at Citizen.

The wait staff plays a fine supporting role; always appearing on cue.

And as for Chairman Mao? His picture was displayed in a small private dining room when the restaurant first opened. After receiving bad reviews from restaurant patrons, the visage is now hidden behind a mirror and cloaked in obscurity, much like Rosebud.

Citizen
3858 Oak Lawn in Turtle Creek Village
(214) 522-7253


Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com

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