Brent Place in Old City Park By Jim White Bet the farm on this one, folks! “Farmhouse food” arrives for lunch at Brent Place in Old City Park. If you grew up on a farm, or just appreciate how much better fresh, farm raised ingredients taste, you’ll love it. Chef David Burdette and Cameron Morris have taken over the restaurant in the historic three-gabled farmhouse overlooking the wildflower gardens of the park. The partners have been running a successful catering company, Quarter Caterers, since leaving Rooster a couple of years ago. Now, in addition, they’re offering lunch Tuesday through Saturday. Fans of Chef Burdette-executive chef of The Grape before Rooster-should be delighted to sample his delicious cooking again. He concentrates on country cuisine from around the world. The “farmhouse” might be in France, Italy, Germany, or of course, all across America. The regional fare is prepared with seasonal produce-Burdette heads for Farmer’s Market every morning-and herbs, some of which are grown in the restaurant’s garden. It’s a simple menu that changes monthly with daily chalkboard specials. I had the most delicious meatloaf I’ve ever tasted ($8.50). It was more meat than loaf and served with scrumptious horseradish mashed-potatoes and succulent steamed asparagus. We also tried a delicate salmon and asparagus cheesecake ($5.95) served over field greens that had us beaming. The Caesar salad dressing is wonderful and garlicky. The romaine lettuce was bursting with freshness. Have it with moist, tender, peppered grilled chicken for $6.95. Farm-raised catfish, with perfectly crispy corn-meal batter, was another special. Great sandwiches include a BLT ($5.95), chicken club ($6.95), turkey burger ($6.95) and, my oh my, veal sweetbreads ($7.95) with caramelized onion marmalade. Not to be missed desserts include a wondrous crème brûlée, a mouthwatering strawberry rhubarb crunch and a marvelous lemon curd tart-my all time favorite-all priced at $3.95. It’s a charming place filled with antiques. Service is friendly, and the setting is relaxed. It’s a small place. Be sure to call for reservations. Parking is a snap. Approach the St. Paul side of the park. The restaurant has its own parking lot across from the Ambassador Hotel. Brent Place Restaurant 1717 Gano Street (214) 421-3057   Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com