Al Biernat’s By Jim White An overnight sensation! And as usual, it only took 20 years of preparation to get there! Al Biernat’s new place in Oak Lawn is hot. But, I predict it will not cool after the foodies flock elsewhere. Why? Bienat paid his dues at The Palm for over 20 years and has the front of the house (service with a smile) down cold. This man is smoother than silk and genuinely interested in his clientele. Executive Chef James Neel is a pup, but he’s trained with the big dogs including Tony’s and The French Room. Furthermore, he’s got talent and work ethic, two qualities that will take him as far as he wants to go (which appears to be a long way). If you haven’t been to Biernat’s since its recent transformation from Joey’s, make a point to arrange your next high-level business lunch (or dinner) or romantic evening there. Things work. Service is knowledgeable and affable. The wine list is first rate--although wines by the glass are way too steep. The décor is beautiful. The menu is outstanding. Try the potato-crusted calamari ($7.50) served with an Absolute diablo sauce. The smoked salmon tartelette ($10.50) combines great textures and flavors. Chef Neel has Caesar Salad “bragging rights” by virtue of his win in the annual chef’s competition. His rendition ($5.50) is sublimely simple and traditional. A number of entrée salads are served. Be sure to order the lobster salad ($22.00) if it’s available. It is a gastronomical delight. Pasta dishes are rich and flavorful. Grilled garlic chicken with basil pasta ($15.00) is a good choice. When I was growing up, the real uptown restaurants served a steak sandwich. Al’s delivers with a N.Y. Strip and house fries ($15.00). There’s good seafood here, too, including salmon with grilled portobella ($17.00) and herb crusted snapper in lemon and white wine ($17.00). At dinner, I had a wonderful yellowfin tuna with cognac and peppercorns and steak frites ($26.00). The big steak, lobster and seafood dishes are served at night. That includes East Coast lobsters at market price, filet mignon, London broil, wild boar and rack of lamb. If you have just one dessert this year, make it the warm sour dough chocolate cake with amaretto cream ($7.75)-made fresh in about 15 minutes. Al Biernat’s 4217 Oak Lawn (214) 219-2201 On The KRLD Restaurant Show Review Scale of One to Five Forks: Biernat’s is a 4 Fork Restaurant. That breaks down like this: Food is 4 Forks. Service is 4 Forks. Atmosphere is 4 Forks. Price is expensive. At lunch entrees range from $10.00 to $18.00; at dinner, $15.50 to $29.50. Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com