The Bay Leaf Restaurant and Bar By Jim White The Bay Leaf Restaurant and Bar has been receiving praise since it opened in Deep Ellum around Labor Day of this year. Just for fun, I picked up my indispensable "Food Lover’s Companion" book and turned to bay leaf. Very interesting to note that the bay leaf, also called laurel leafs, had magical properties associated with it by the early Greeks and Romans. The laurel leafs have long been a symbol of honor, celebration and triumph—as in "winning your laurels". Wondering if proprietor Ronnie Crayton chose the name because of that historical significance, or as a symbol of all the different flavors that Executive Chef Paul Singaphong is capable of achieving on his Bay Leaf menu? Maybe both. Chef is using his El Centro training, Dallas tutelage at the French Room and the Mansion, and his experience at fine restaurants in San Francisco to turn out some very creative new American dishes with French and Asian accents at Bay Leaf. Hot and sour chicken rice soup is a good example—not as tart as the variety you’ll find in most Chinese restaurants—more subtlety. Tantalizing appetizers include escargot sautéed with shitake mushrooms and cheese polenta with thyme-garlic sauce, and red wine reduction and grilled miso-orange marinated quail with cucumber relish and spicy peanut sauce. Entrées are well crafted, too. Highlights include grilled coriander-garlic marinated chicken breast with coconut rice pilaf and pan-seared sea scallops with carrot mashed potatoes, and intriguing julienne vegetables with Jamaican rum and green peppercorn cream sauce. Kick it up a notch with grilled honey-soy marinated salmon with black sticky rice compote and a green curry sauce. Need a little comfort food in these trying times? Try the Bacon-pecan stuffed pork chop, with sweet potato and vegetable compote with sage pan gravy. Umm. Desserts include steamed macadamia banana pudding with chocolate and caramel sauces and a wonderful classic crème brulee. The wine list, under the supervision of Diane Teitelbaum, offers plenty of range and is well-suited to the spicy peaks and nuances of Chef Singaphong’s cuisine. The interior is Deep Ellum hip with plenty of exposed brick, a faux period ceiling, bronzed and stained concrete floors, lots of contemporary artwork and cool jazz—both on the sound system and performed live on weekends. Valet parking is offered nights and weekends. You should be able to find a nearby parking meter for lunch. Reservations are highly recommended on weekends. Call 214-573-8775. Bay Leaf is located at 2820 Commerce Street at Crowdus in Deep Ellum. Lunch is served Monday through Friday, Dinner Monday through Saturday and a Sunday jazz brunch is on the boards by the end of the year. On the KRLD Restaurant Show Review Scale of One to Five Forks, Bay Leaf rates 4 Forks. Food is 4 Forks. Service is 3 and a half Forks. Atmosphere is 4 Forks. Price is expensive, with lunch entrées ranging from $6.50 for a club sandwich to $18 for pan seared beef tenderloin. At night, entrées are $15 for the grilled chicken to $28 for a grilled strip steak. Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com