Thirty Six Degrees By Jim White We all know the story of the little train that could. Despite odds against him, he summons all courage and conviction and huffs and puffs his way to the top of the mountain ridge and takes the train to its destination. If you love stories about the underdog, then you gotta love Chef Chris Svalesen’s saga to get his new restaurant, 36 Degrees, open. The former chef/partner at Fish—now closed in downtown Dallas—and chef at Yellow—now the site of Watel’s, has been summoning all his courage and conviction for over a year to get his new restaurant opened—in the space that was the defunct Venus Steakhouse and Supper Club at Lemmon and Douglas. I won’t go into the verities and balderdash involved with opening a new restaurant, but they include investors, landlords, suppliers and city inspectors---"I think I can, I think I can"—keep going Chris, you can do it! About 4 months ago, Svalesen opened a fresh fish market next to the impending restaurant. "The Net Result" has been offering fresh fish and takeout seafood specialties while the whims and vagaries of building the restaurant continued---"I think I can, I think I can." Finally, about a month ago, fed up with delays, Chef Svalesen opened a portion of his new restaurant: kitchen, bar and a very small, makeshift dining room, just to begin getting the word out that 36 Degrees is open. Here, we’ll tell you that the name means the proper holding temperature for fresh fish: 36 degrees. The dining room experience for now is somewhat surreal; the look is kind of a cross between a high rise office and a double-wide, and definitely makeshift. But pay no mind to the temporary digs, it’s comfortable and the food is trademark Chris Svalesen wonderful. If you want to see what the restaurant will look like when it’s finished, you take a look at computer generated depictions inside the temporary front entrance. Make no mistake, Chris Svalesen is the finest seafood chef going. There was a reason he graduated near the top of his class from the Culinary Institute. He has long been regarded as one of the best, his restaurant Fish was named "Best New Seafood Restaurant in America" by Esquire Magazine in 1997. At 36 Degrees, you will find many of his signatures and specialities. Crab cakes are the best around. How about kicking it up a notch with the pan fried lobster cake with a tamale remoulade and curried apricot glaze? Steam mussels or baked oysters are a hit. Some of the best New England style clam chowder you’ll taste comes out of the tiny, temporary kitchen. You’ll also find classic bouillabaisse and San Francisco style cioppino. An array of salads will satisfy. Warm frisee and Jonah Crab Louis lead the way. Entrée selections are a seafood lovers’ paradise. I had a perfectly prepared grilled Atlantic swordfish steak escabeche on a bed of sweet potato puree. The sautéed filet of Florida grouper was as moist and tender as they come. It’s served with roasted shallots, garlic, apple-smoked bacon, balsamic vinegar and demi-glace. An incredible dish that Chris made during his appearance with us in the "Jim White Celebrity Kitchen" at the State Fair is featured on his extensive menu: a filet of King Salmon, wrapped in filo dough with Swiss chard, in a pistachio-miso beurre blanc. It is incredible. Try it with the Chehalem Pinot Noir on their short, but thoughtfully selected wine list. You want monkfish? You want Dover Sole? Halibut? Trout? Walleye Pike? Mahi Mahi? Live Maine Lobster? Dungeoness Crab? Chilean Seabass? Jumbo King Crab Legs? It’s all here and waiting for you at 36 Degrees. The restaurant is only open for dinner currently, Tuesday through Saturday. Chef explains he’s not open on Monday because you can’t get fresh seafood—fishermen take Sunday off. Service is attentive and well versed in the menu and some of the intricate preparations. Go visit the "little chef who can" and experience a restaurant work in progress. I know I can, I know I can! Go Chris! I hope you will. I hope you will. 36 Degrees is located at 4140 Lemmon Avenue at Douglas in the Oak Lawn area of Dallas. Free valet parking is available. Phone 214-521-4488 for reservations. On the KRLD Restaurant Show Review Scale of one to five Forks, 36 Degrees rates 4 Forks. Food is 4 and half forks. Service is 3 and half forks. Atmosphere is 3 Forks. Price is moderate to expensive—entrees range from $16.95 to $22.95 with daily market prices on live crab and lobster. Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com