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2900
By
Jim White
When Dallas dining
gets compared to Houston, many people bemoan the lack of really good
independent neighborhood restaurants here.
There may be a lot of flash and cash corporate dining in Big
D and far too many chain restaurants for my taste, but I’m happy
to report another gem in the Uptown area of Dallas.
2900 in the
State-Thomas neighborhood is a welcome addition to the urban
landscape and adds another unique, independent restaurant to the
Dallas dining scene.
2900 is a funky,
industrial chic, upscale casual dining establishment serving tasty
and creative New American cuisine.
Live jazz on the weekend makes it even cooler.
If you’ve had a
chance to cruise the neighborhood you may be familiar with 2900’s
sibling restaurant across the street, Thomas Avenue Beverage
Company: TABC.
Put that one in the plus category for unique dining in
Dallas, too, come to think of it.
TABC is bar and
grill. 2900 is fine
dining, with good, friendly service and a very serviceable wine
list. It’s an
eclectic crowd, too. On
our visits we’ve seen everyone from the tragically hip, singles,
young marrieds, middle aged dining denizens and adventurous older
diners enjoying themselves in the slick uptown setting.
Executive Chef
Mike Smith and crew are on display behind a big picture window to
the kitchen as nightly specials and tantalizing features from an
ambitious and well-executed menu fly out to satisfied diners.
We almost ordered
seconds on the grilled artichoke hearts appetizer both times we had
it. Artichokes remain
one of the most sensual dining pleasures.
These are served in a lemon pepper beurre
blanc with bits of Parmesan.
Regardless of what your mother said, DO dip your bread
into that heavenly sauce. Other
fairly standard choices include crab cakes and fried calamari.
Another offering not seen on the starters “list of usual
suspects”, though, is 2900’s sausages with roasted peppers,
Kalamata olives, black pepper rustico and cherry mozzarella.
Fun and
approachable main courses include “Lazy Ravioli”—the pasta
hasn’t been formed into the little ravioli purses—with lobster,
corn, red bell peppers, scallions and a saffron cream sauce. It was sweet, tactile and nearly sensational with a Caymus
Conundrum. The
Terriyaki marinated chicken breast with snow peas, carrots, Napa
cabbage and bean sprouts in a wasabi dressing literally sang-out
with crunch and tangy flavors.
On a red wine
evening, the Manchego stuffed beef tenderloin with scrumptious
chorizo cheese grits and a bone-in NY strip with heavenly blackberry
and mission fig demi glace were exceptional with a Schlumberger
Merlot.
More hearty
choices include the grilled bone-in ribeye and the smoked cheddar,
poblano and mushroom stuffed pork loin.
Interesting sides and sauces highlight all the dishes.
Seafood selections
included grilled tuna with warm two cabbage and jicama slaw with
habanero vinaigrette in a citrus beurre blanc, and what I call the “Caribbean tour”, sixteen
spiced halibut with black beans and rice in a mango and roasted
onion sauce with fried plantains.
A major criticism
has nothing to do with food or service.
It is the proximity of the smoking section to diners in this
15 table restaurant. How
about in your face? Dining
starts right at the edge of the bar and smoke wafts all the way to
the back, so there really isn’t a non-smoking section in the
restaurant. The food is
serious enough. It
should be given the consideration of not having to fight second hand
smoke—not to mention the poor diners!
Don’t expect the
broad parking lots of the “corporate” restaurants.
2900 and TABC share a tiny parking lot, so street parking is
the rule rather than the exception.
I didn’t observe any valet parking offered on either visit.
2900 is named for
its street address, 2900 Thomas Avenue at Allen in State-Thomas.
It’s open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday nights.
Phone 214-303-0400 for reservations.
The place bustles when it’s busy, and it’s almost too
loud to hear yourself think on a Saturday night before the joint
starts jumping with the Jazz Doctors.
On the
KRLD Restaurant Show Review Scale of One to Five Forks,
2900
Rates 4 Forks.
Food is
4 Forks
Service
is 3 and a half Forks
Atmosphere
is 3 and a half Forks
Price is
expensive with entrées ranging from $13 to $28.
Send me an Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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