Laurel's Restaurant Review

By Jim White

Host of the KRLD Restaurant Show

When it comes to fine dining forget what Horace Greeley said and, "go North, young man...and woman" to Laurel's in The Sheraton Park-Central Hotel. Quite simply, this is one of the most memorable dining experiences you'll ever have. Chef Danielle Custer has brought Dallas dining to a new level with her global cuisine. Her skill and finesse with spices and ingredients are astounding. You will enjoy a symphony of flavors when you visit this restaurant, made exciting by her talent. Danielle has made the meal more of an event by giving you the chance to interpret the Laurel's wine list based on the flavors of the wine.

She offers the predominate flavors of the wine on the wine list and the predominate flavors of the food on the menu so you can choose foods and wines with either similar or contrasting flavors. The result? Very rewarding, even magical when the right food/wine pairing is achieved. For your first visit to Laurel's, I suggest you put yourself in Danielle's capable hands and order "The Chef's Table-Chef's Whim". This five-course or seven course meal will be selected by her, expressly for you, after she queries your table about any food preferences, likes, dislikes or possible allergies. And since you won't necessarily know what foods you'll be having until they arrive, you might even allow her to select the suitable wine for each course. Laurel's features a number of great selections by the glass and quite a few half bottles. I'll tell you about a few of the sublime selections from our "Chef's Whim".

Appetizers included a Tequila Cured Salmon Gravlax served with tarragon dill pesto and salmon pearls on a delicate cornmeal crepe. The Ahi tartar, in a crunchy potato nest was bursting with flavor. Layer upon layer of rich, wonderful flavors lingered in our mouth as we sampled the Roasted Acorn Squash Bisque. No matter how you order from the Laurel's menu-ala carte or Chef's Whim-you must have the Stilton and Greens. One of the most delightful and incredible salads I've ever had. It's a shining example of Danielle's creativity and ability to combine textures and ingredients masterfully. Imagine, Pancetta, candied hazelnuts, brown butter vinaigrette and pickled grapes tossed with arugula and other fresh greens. You'll smile, you'll laugh, you may sing. Stilton and Greens will tickle your fancy. This is an emotional experience. Entrees are almost indescribable. You have to taste them to understand their complexity. The Sumac Marinated Lamb Rack is a must. The Chilean Sea Bass Saltimbocca with Parmesan mushroom risotto is divine. Grilled Ahi Tuna with Kimchi Salad, Ginger Lime Aioli and Cranberry Beet Reduction is amazing. The Veal Rib Chop is done with garnish the gourmet will appreciate and the Aztec introduced. It's a savory Matoke Mash and Pepian and Huitlacoche-Banana Mojo combination. Danielle substituted ostrich in our version and it was outstanding. For the less adventurous palate there is also a great selection of steaks, chicken and fish on the Laurel's menu. For desserts, the apple tart is wonderful. Creme brulee is world class. And Laurel's also has a great soufflé. Laurel's has recently been completely renovated, reflecting Danielle's personality and this daring new cuisine. Gone are the soft pastels. They've given way to strong, bold colors and designs. It's still a beautiful, romantic room with a fabulous view. The restaurant is open for dinner Monday through Saturday. Friday night seems to be the best night to get a table. Call for reservations, 972-851-2021.