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A DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH
Tasty's, Anguilla, British West Indies
By Joel Chusid
Dale Carty is a young man with a dream. The 30-year old personable Anguillian
plans to open an ocean view restaurant called Sheridan's where he can
provide a complete gourmet dining experience to discriminating guests. But
that's five years away. In the meantime, the chef, who studied under the
celebrated legendary chefs, father and son Jo and Michel Rostang in France
and at Anguilla's renowned Malliouhana Hotel, started his own casual restaurant,
Tasty's, a couple of years ago.

Featured in the October 2000 issue of Travel and Leisure and the February
2001 issue of Bon Appetit, Tasty's is a true diamond in the rough. I visited
the eatery on a November Sunday evening and was not quite prepared for the
cuisine and service that awaited me. From first glance, the place is
unassuming, on a main road, with brightly painted walls, a small bar area,
and rather basic although table-clothed tables, with room for only 30 diners.
But open the menu and be prepared to be blown away! The cuisine is heavily
based on local fish and vegetables, products, enhanced by Dale's creative
touches. The chef does all the cooking himself, although he is making an
effort to recruit and train a local assistant. Tasty's serves breakfast,
lunch, and dinner daily except Mondays, all year except for a couple of weeks
when Dale closes in September so he can accomplish improvements on the
physical aspect of the restaurant, little by little. In 2002, for the first
time he confided that he'll take a real vacation, visiting friends in
Madrid. He's never visited the U.S., even Puerto Rico, a mere 55 minute
flight away.
Breakfast is more than pancakes and eggs, with Grand Marnier French Toast and
Poached Eggs with Sautéed Mushrooms standing out. Bagels, smoked salmon, and
cream cheese are even offered for power breakfasts. Dale did not know what a
"power breakfast" was, so I enlightened him and, in fact, scheduled one with
some high level local officials for a couple of days later, so maybe we were
the first!
The lunch menu offers a variety of interesting salads including conch, fresh
fish dishes, pastas, salads, and sandwiches, and Dale admitted he wanted to
expand it a little more. Dinner, however, is a dazzling experience. Following
a complimentary trigger fish appetizer, we had the shrimp and plantain kebabs
served on a green salad, lamp chops over vegetables with mashed potatoes, and
grilled fresh tuna steak with capers and lemon butter and garlic served over
ratatouille along with seasoned rice. The menu also offered grilled bell
peppers stuffed with goat cheese, crayfish and papaya salsa, a wide range of
local fish, a lemon chicken entree, pork chops, steak, and vegetable
papillotte. For dessert, we had the warm coconut tart with vanilla ice cream.
There's a diverse wine list with selections from several countries in a
moderate price range, although Tasty's does not have a wine cellar yet. Dale
is learning about wines from Albert Lake, Anguilla's famous sommelier.
Service was solicitous and we were surprised to learn that it was one of the
two waitresses' first day on the job. Anguilla being the small island it is
with only 10,000 inhabitants, it was also no surprise to run into the new
waitress the following morning at her other job at a travel agency.
Dale makes it a point to get out of the kitchen and chat with each of the
diners. His personality is infectious, and he does not hesitate to talk about
both his short term plans (fixing up Tasty's little by little, enhancing the
luncheon menu) and long term plans (opening Sheridan's).
For Anguilla, prices are moderate. Credit cards are accepted, and it appears
that in peak season (Dec 15 - April 30), reservations are going to be
essential as word of mouth is spreading news of Tasty's fast. Dale has not
spent a penny on advertising.
Tasty's Café. South Hill, Anguilla. Tel. (264)497-2737 or 497-5734. Dale
expects to have a website up and running in a couple of weeks, but in the
meantime, he can be reached via e-mail at chefcarty@anguillanet.com.
Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions? Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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