A RESTAURANT WORTH TIPPING YOUR HAT FOR
Straw Hat Restaurant, Anguilla, British West
Indies
By Joel Chusid
The only directional signs on the rough dirt road to this
restaurant have little straw hats on them; no words, just a simple
picture. At the end of the road, Straw Hat sits on a pier over the
water, serving only in the evening and with a view of the lights of
St. Maarten that’s a sight in itself. True to its name, straw hats
adorn the place, over light fixtures, in photos and hat boxes on the
wall, and on the menu in a drawing by a local artist.
Peter and Anne Parles moved to Anguilla from Connecticut five
years ago and opened this charming place, and with an American chef
trained at the Culinary Arts Institute in New York, Bryan Malcarney,
have been serving excellent dinners nightly except Sunday ever
since. Despite two hurricanes that resulted in significant damage,
Straw Hat has survived and has developed a following. No wonder, it
is indeed a find.
Since the bartender is up in New York at a training course, Peter
fills in, at least until Christmas. He greets and visits with each
dining party throughout the evening, answering questions and making
guests feel at home. Service is friendly and efficient. Anne handles
bookkeeping and financial matters. Neither one treads into the
kitchen, where Bryan rules the roost.
We sampled the grilled Anguillian crayfish as an appetizer that
had just the right amount of seasoning and was succulent. Others
tried the crab spring rolls and were not disappointed. Also offered
was a cucumber and dill soup, a grilled pork brochette, marinated
conch salad, and ceviche of red snapper.
Fresh fish is a feature, and on the night we dined, just caught
fresh swordfish in a citrus and buerre blanc sauce was absolutely
perfect. The grilled loin of tuna over a bed of pickled cucumber,
cold sesame noodles, and tarragon satay sauce was tasty and done
just right. Other items included grilled rib-eye steak, free range
chicken, seared red snapper, medallions of pork tenderloin, linguine
a la Puttanesca, and grilled Anguillian lobster. Fried plantains,
which came with the steak or as a side dish, were prepared expertly.
Our party passed on dessert, but a variety of rich delights were
offered on a separate menu. The wine list was adequate, with
selections available from U.S., French, Italian, and Australian
vineyards in all price ranges. Several half bottles and wines by the
glass were listed as well.
Most restaurants on Anguilla are not inexpensive, and Straw Hat
is no exception, although it is by no means the most expensive.
Appetizers range from $7-$14, and entrees $19-$29.
