Buying the Best Spices From Tom and Patty Erd-owners of “The Spice House” in Evanston, Illinois From The American Institute of Wine and Food quarterly newsletter. Patty is a third-generation spice merchant. She and her husband took over the 40 year old business, on the North Shore of Chicago, from her father. Words of wisdom fill the Spice House catalog (available by calling 847-328-3711) like this gem from Mark Twain, “Part of the secret of success in life is to eat what you like and let the food fight it out inside”; or this New York Yiddish Proverb, “A nickel will get you on the subway, but garlic will get you a seat”. Patty shares tips for buying the best spices. Black pepper: Tellicherry peppercorns from India’s Malabar coast are extra large and robust. Keep your eyes out for Ponape Island peppercorns from Micronesia. They’re hard to find and high-priced, but exceptionally aromatic. Cinnamon: Saigon cinnamon has more volatile oils than other varieties, so it’s more flavorful and longer lasting; too pungent for baking, but a top choice for savory dishes. Ginger: The creamy yellow China Number One is superior to Indian ginger, which dominates American imports. Saffron: Coupe is the grade give to Spain’s highest-quality saffron. It indicates saffron that has been hand-selected to include only the red. Or most aromatic threads. Salt: The “caviar of salt” comes from the Ile de Re off France’s Brittainy coast. It’s a fleur du sel, which means it’s the prized, flavorful crystal hand-raked off the top of the salt ponds. Too expensive to use with abandon, it’s typically sprinkled on top of poached fish, chicken or beef, where its flavor can be appreciated. Vanilla bean: Most of the Erds customers order Tahitian beans. They’re moister, plumper and have more seeds than beans from other sources. Remember that spices are subject to nature. The best source for any spice can vary from year to year. Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions? Email: jwdineine@aol.com