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THE UNEXPECTED GOURMET
By Joel Chusid
It may look like a diner, but the food’s anything but! Just a
short 15-minute ride from the main Miami Beach scene, The
Gourmet Diner is a favorite among locals,
but not generally known by visitors to the city. Owner Sia Hemmati
was the proprietor of Jason’s Restaurant in Dallas a couple of
decades back.
The cuisine is seriously French. The list of daily appetizer and
main course specials is brought to each table on a blackboard.
Regulars don’t even waste time with the regular menu. Fresh
seafood predominates, but chicken and red meats are also offered.
Chef Frankie, from Haiti, has been serving up amazing haute cuisine
for many years, his skills developed on the job over time.
We opted to start with an enormous fresh chilled artichoke,
served with a traditional mustard vinaigrette for dipping, and
perfect fresh green asparagus. Escargot, mussels, pate and jumbo
shrimp were other options. The French onion soup baked with Swiss
cheese is legendary among regulars. We skipped the salad course, but
some unique selections included mushroom and squid salad, spinach
gorgonzola, and a mixed salad topped with fresh dolphin or tilapia.
One of our main courses, selected from the specials, was Chilean
Sea Bass Provençal, served with thinly sliced potatoes and a light
broccoli soufflé. The other was called 4X4, a delectable dish of 4
each jumbo shrimp and tender scallops, served over rice in a tomato
base.
Desserts included amazing pastries, such as the largest Napoleon
I’d ever seen, all prepared daily by famed pastry chef Dorothy
Thompson. Service was prompt and congenial. Maitre d’ Jean,
formerly of New York’s Tavern on the Green makes sure everyone is
well taken care of. An extensive, varied wine list complements the
food. Prices were on the high side of moderate, especially with the
"diner" atmosphere, with appetizers ranging between $7-$11
and main courses $12-$22.
Hanna’s Gourmet Diner, 13951 Biscayne Boulevard, North
Miami Beach, Florida. (305)947-2255. Open 11am to 11pm daily; opens
at 9am Friday-Sunday for breakfast. Beer and wine only.
Get more "Jetset Dining with Joel
Chusid" here.
Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions? Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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