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NOT JUST ITALIAN, BUT REALLY ROMAN

By Joel Chusid

In an international city like Miami Beach, there are Italian restaurants all over. But a true Roman restaurant is a find, not only for the authenticity of its cuisine, but also for the delightful al fresco ambience on a shady street just two blocks from trendy Ocean Drive. Hostería Romana, opened only this past September, already has a following. You’re taken by not only by the red-checkered covered tables spread out on the sidewalk on beautiful Española Way, but by the accommodating and friendly cadre of Italian and Latin waiters.

Only open for dinner, the restaurant specializes in Roman cuisine. My dining companion had lived in Rome for 25 years, and she was enthralled by the huge menu selection and the quality of the food. Antipasti included several types of carpaccio, seafood, cheeses, and prosciutto, but we opted for the "rarely offered outside of Rome" Carciofi al Giudea (artichokes Roman-Jewish style), battered and deep fried. Next, we chose traditional bruschetta with tomatoes and basil, although four other types were on the menu.

Twenty-three kinds of pizza were offered with almost every conceivable topping, as well as more than 30 different pasta and rice dishes from fettucini and tortellini to lesser known pappardelle, bucatini, and gnocchi. We chose risoto with a variety of wild mushrooms in a light cream sauce and pappardelle with porcini mushrooms. Broccoli, spinach, and other vegetables sautéed in garlic and oil were fine accompaniments. A wide selection of chicken, beef, veal, lamb chops and seafood were also available. A complete wine list provides plenty of options to wash all this down.

The waiters banter with customers and make for a fun atmosphere, and the tables on the sidewalk allow for plenty of people watching. We finished off two bottles of Chianti and, Latin-style, spent 3 hours savoring our dinner. This place is destined to be a hot spot when word gets out. Prices were moderate, with appetizers averaging around $10, pizzas around $13, and pasta dishes slightly higher.

Hostería Romana. 429 Espanola Way, Miami Beach (Sobe), FL 33139. (305) 532-4299. Dinner only from 3pm.

Get more "Jetset Dining with Joel Chusid" here.


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