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August 5, 2000
A Recent trip to southwest
France and northwest (Basque) Spain
By: Scott Chase
My wife and I recently traveled to
the Basque area of Spain and France and the Bergerac area of
southwest France and we wanted to report on some wine and food
attractions of those destinations. Bergerac lies along the Dordogne
River directly east of Bordeaux and the Basque region is on either
side of the Pyrenees (which is the border between France and Spain)
and faces the Atlantic Coast. The French part of the Basque area is
directly south of Bordeaux and both Bergerac and the French Basque
area have their own wine appellations. Wine from both regions hold
their own against less than grand cru wines from the Bordeaux area.
For example, we tasted a 1997 Fongrenier-Stuart from the
Razac-Saussignac district in Bergerac, which for the price (it’s
available at Pogo’s locally for $10) easily beats many Bordeaux,
in terms of structure and flavor. (A side note about this wine is
that the Stuart of the label is a retired Dallasite who lives 6
months per year in Razac-Saussignac). However, our favorites were
the 1998 Montravel white Bergerac and the locally produced
roses.

As for the Basque area, its
appellation is Irouleguy and the producer Illaria has a wonderful
dry rose. That producer is not available in Dallas, but Irouleguy
roses have been available in Dallas. Two other wines stood out in
our travels: Ch. Monbazillac dessert wine from Bergerac and Floc d’Gascogne,
a sherry-type aperitif from the Armagnac region which is between
Bergerac and Irouleguy.

Fil de l’eau in Port St. Foy
For meals in the Bergerac area,
there is a fine riverside restaurant named au Fil de l’eau in Port
St. Foy. The patio overlooks the bridge over the Dordogne and the
cathedral of St. Foy and the view reminded me of the River Café in
Brooklyn for its ambiance. The restaurant has typical French bistro
food, with several fixed price options, and an extensive, reasonably
priced wine list.
Ch. Monbazillac |
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Market Day in Eymet |
A casual place in Eymet (a
fortified town just south of Bergerac with a wonderful market day on
Thursdays), Les Arcades des Italianes, is also worth a visit. Eymet
is within a short drive from many of the vineyards and tasting
rooms, including Ch. Monbazillac, of the Bergerac area. It is also
within easy driving distance of Domme which is the location of Hotel
l’Esplanade which combines a Michelin 1 star menu with
breathtaking views of the Dordogne.

Hotel Grand Barrail
Easily the finest meal that we had was in St.
Emilion at the dining room of the Hotel Grand Barrail. The chef
there is a James Beard Foundation chef and the meal that we had was
innovative and tasty. The wine list was heavy on St. Emilions, but
well-priced.

Central Hotel in St. Jean Pied de
Port
For a meal in the Basque area, we
recommend the dining room of the Central Hotel in St. Jean Pied de
Port. This picturesque, small town is a market town and the dining
room of the hotel overlooks a pleasant stream that runs through the
center of town.

Akelarre
In the Spanish Basque area, we had a wonderful
meal at Akelarre, which is a Michelin 2-star restaurant in San
Sebastian. The restaurant has a wraparound view of the Atlantic
Coast and the food, while featuring seafood, also has regional
Basque meat specialties that are complemented by the extensive
Spanish wine list.
Do you have any questions, comments or suggestions? Email: jwdineline@aol.com
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